Our meal began spectacularly with a big lump of sweetbreads—lightly dusted with flour, compressed into a jaunty rhombus, and seared to juicy perfection. The bovine thymus came pooled in a rhubarb glaze and garnished with shredded dandelion greens, providing tart, sweet, and bitter flavors that contrasted nicely with the cholesterol richness of the organ. Really, I haven't enjoyed sweetbreads this much in years. The asparagus salad also proved incredible—a compost heap of green and white fragments, cooked but still crisp, soused with a fondue of creamy Boucheron cheese. The vegetarians at my table fought over... More >>>