Much ink has been spilled over the last decade concerning the new availability of Isaan food in Queens. Issuing from the northeastern corner of Thailand, and heavily influenced by Lao cooking, the cuisine is big on fiery meat-bearing salads, catfish fried into a crunchy lattice, fermented pork sausages, sticky rice, spice-coated chicken, and a pungent salad of green papaya and crab. What a surprise, then, to stumble into Kensington's Am-Thai Chili Basil Kitchen, on a nowheresville stretch of Brooklyn's McDonald Avenue, and find the place turning up its nose at Isaan, concentrating on the lively cooking... More >>>