First, there was Beppe. Done up like an Italian villa, it represented chef Cesare Casella's return to his roots. He'd grown up outside Lucca, Italy, where his parents owned a trattoria, and Beppe's menu was straight-up Tuscan. After notable culinary and commercial success, he moved on to Maremma, which occupied a former piano bar in the West Village. Menu-wise, Casella indulged his penchant for "Tuscan cowboy cooking," fusing central Italian cuisine with American ranch fare and justifying it by noting that southwestern Tuscany actually harbors cowboys who ride... More >>>