Spring is (finally) in the air and the warm weather seems to be lightening our moods as well as our wardrobes. Did the rising temperatures have the same effect on our critics? Tejal Rao has mixed feelings about Manzanilla in Gramercy, while Robert Sietsema writes a rave for Cathedral in Flatbush. R ... More >>
This week, our professional eaters sought out plates that reminded them of home -- if not theirs, then someone else's. In Astoria, Robert Sietsema enjoyed an Egyptian feast at El Omda, while Tejal Rao sopped up the sauce at Red Gravy in Brooklyn Heights. How did our critics rate their Middle Easte ... More >>
Our own Robert Sietsema surveys the latest barbecue offerings from "the East Village to Gowanus," and finds worthwhile rib-stickers throughout the boroughs. His saucy list of favorites includes Daniel Delany's BrisketTown, "which obsesses on beef brisket smoked in a trailer located just off Flushing ... More >>
Tejal Rao visited pizza legend Patsy Grimaldi's new outpost, Juliana's, where the pies are made with an old-fashioned touch -- cheese first, sauce last. The method allows the "tomato sauce [to] protect the cheese like sunblock," Rao writes in her review of Juliana's." The benefits of such care are c ... More >>
This week, Tejal Rao tries the pasta and polenta boards at L'Apicio, the new "glassy cathedral" on the Bowery from partners Gabe Thompson and Joe Campanale, where Rao says if you added a parking lot "it could be that one restaurant in every American town where the people with money come." While she ... More >>
This week, our own Tejal Rao found the beauty in buckwheat at Nolita's Cocoron. Of the restaurant's signature soba, she writes that "the noodles here have soul and bite. A massive pot of water rolls in the back of the kitchen, sending up a clean, perfumed steam." This second location for husband an ... More >>
Our own Tejal Rao visits former Top Chef contestant Leah Cohen's Lower East Side South Asian restaurant, Pig and Khao, and finds the outcome boisterous and inconsistent. While Cohen's ability to cook is evident in the noodle curry khao soi which is "full of quality crunch and chew," the crispy pata ... More >>
Robert Sietsema visits Nicoletta in hopes that chef Michael White had made amends to all of the negative press: "I took another bite of that disappointing crust, and my mind went back to college: It tasted like the Tombstone frozen pizzas once served in Wisconsin bars and warmed in lightbulb cabinet ... More >>
See what NYC's restaurant critics have been up to this week: Robert Sietsema files a piece on Rosemary's in the West Village. He compares the restaurant's recipes to that of Italian pasta guru Alfredo Viazzi: "While one is often well-advised not to stray into secondi in Tuscan-style restaurants bec ... More >>
[See More Under Review: Tejal Rao at Reynards; Robert Sietsema at Yemen Café | Robert Sietsema at Pete Zaaz; Tejal Rao at Landbrot | Tejal Rao at Pok Pok Ny; Robert Sietsema on Eldridge Street] Robert Sietsema says that although Mission Chinese is not completely authentic Sichuan food, it is likab ... More >>
See what NYC's restaurant critics have been up to this week: Robert Sietsema checks out Parish Hall in Williamsburg: "The dinner menu at Parish Hall boasts several interesting preparations--including a soft-boiled egg with ham crumbs in a smoked-parsnip slurry--but the eatery really comes into its ... More >>
See what the city's restaurant critics have been up to this week: In this week's Voice, Robert Sietsema tries the dim sum over at Genting Palace: "Odd for a Chinese restaurant, there's an outdoor terrace with tables that will presumably at some future point allow you to enjoy some of the city's bes ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema questions whether Bowery Diner really qualifies as a diner: "There are whelks, for God's sake -- just try requesting those in a Greek diner -- served raw or cooked with garlic butter. You'll also find periwinkles, Jonah crab claws, oysters, scallops, clams, mu ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema travels to New Jersey's Taste of India and Thali (Food) Court, where he finds that the Newport Centre Mall's options do not disappoint even the most refined palates: "Vegetable commonplaces such as chana masala (chickpeas bobbing in mellow gravy), palak paneer ... More >>
Don't clam up. This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema bites into bivalves at Littleneck, a Gowanus clam shack: "The most spectacular appearance of Brooklyn's iconic bivalve is on a clam roll ($16), featuring full-belly littlenecks with creamy tartar sauce and a few shreds of lettuce for colo ... More >>
Going bananas for Malay platesThis week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples screwpine at Banana Leaf, Sunset Park's new Malaysian outpost. Slurp the super-sour asam laksa for a true sense of the archipelago's aromas. Eric Asimov savors Sushi Yasuda. His verdict: Even with the departure of ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers authentic Henan on the Lower East Side at He Nan Flavor. Lauren Shockey sips a Grilled Cheese Martini at Beecher's Handmade Cheese.Liz BarclayCurd-ish pleasures at Beecher's Adam Platt isn't exactly charmed by the new West Village Fatty 'Cue ( ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema gets a spicy surprise, namely "reconfigured Sichuan fare," at Tibetan café Phayul; Lauren Shockey discovers "totally passé eats" at The Astor Room. Sam Sifton approves of Empellón: "one of the more captivating restaurants to open in recent months, w ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds that "the food runs from inspired to terrible" at Coppelia; Lauren Shockey drinks the Kool-Aid at the Brooklyn Star. Sam Sifton awards The National Bar and Dining Rooms one star: "[The décor] is appetizing, as it happens: it is the sort of restaurant w ... More >>
Not Adam Platt."[Restaurant criticism is] the most subjective of any of these disciplines, if you can even call it a discipline. You can go to a restaurant and ... [your opinion] can change not just day to day but hour to hour and minute to minute. ... It's going to be subjective. So everybod ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers unfussy, "amazing!" Northern Chinese at Henan Feng Wei in Flushing. Sam Sifton pokes a bit of fun at expense-account-friendly Lavo: "The menu is Italian by way of a steakhouse, and if the food isn't totally awesome, the portions are huge. You'll lov ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds the food thrilling, but the premises not so much at the beef temple that is Manzo in Eataly. Sam Sifton slums it on the Lower East Side at Xiao Ye, which he deems "an artful misfire: the sort of place that, as [chef-owner Eddie] Huang sadly appears to d ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema recommends skipping the pho in favor of other dishes at Chinatown Vietnamese Tu Do. Sarah DiGregorio suggests you go for the pork over the beef at Venezuelan Guayoyo. Sam Sifton awards Marc Forgione two stars for food that is, "sometimes sweet. Other times, i ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema reckons that Strong Place "might be the most perfect evocation of the Brooklyn bistro to date." Sarah DiGregorio finds that the food at Gourmet Sweets and Restaurant "is a testament to all the many wonderful things one can make with humble cuts of meat, lentil ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema enjoys simple roasted meats, Yemeni-style, at Bab al Yemen. Sarah DiGregorio deems Hawkers and Bai Cha, "a late-night kill-a-craving joint" and "adequate lunch spot," respectively. Sam Sifton approves of Nuela: "There is good eating at Nuela, if only you can ... More >>
This week in The Voice, Robert Sietsema finds the food looks amazing, but tastes terrible at Plein Sud. Sarah DiGregorio reports hits and misses at Cienfuegos, but gives a nod to the champagne punch. Sam Sifton approves of Tamarind Tribeca, which: "might rate a pleasant shrug [in Indian cuisine-hap ... More >>
This week in The Voice, Robert Sietsema sees his goat-head stew staring back at him at Buka in Clinton Hill, while Sarah DiGregorio finds that new neighborhood Korean Mrs. Kim's hits the mark in Greenpoint. Sam Sifton finds the food at The Lion okay, but complains that it "swapped the warm exclusiv ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds an unchanging temple to Tex-Mex in El Cantinero. Sarah DiGregorio is impressed by pan-Indian Tamarind Tribeca, despite its broad range of cuisines. Sam Sifton finds hits and misses at ABC Kitchen, but still awards it two stars: "The food is great ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples the "deeply scarlet, slow-smoked beef brisket" at Mile End. Sarah DiGregorio checks out Bromo Satay House, where "generally, the meat and fish are delicious, while anything in a broth is not." Sam Sifton awards two stars to Prime Meats for food that " ... More >>
When you're the name behind go-to New York City eateries like Pastis, Balthazar, Schiller's and Minetta Tavern, what do you care about a one-star review in lowly New York magazine? If you're Keith McNally, you care, goddammit. Enough to write an incensed letter personally attacking the critic ... More >>
Pulino's rock shrimp pieNever one to take a bad review lying down, Pulino's owner Keith McNally has sent an open letter to New York critic Adam Platt after this week's review of the restaurant. (Platt noted that the crust tastes like matzo, which was exactly what we thought.)
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema has the "one of the hottest things" he's tasted all year: Liberian pepper shrimp at Maima's in Jamaica, Queens. Sarah DiGregorio samples the pie at Paulie Gee's, where the crust "burrows into your brain -- a stretchy, bubbly, char-spotted pillow of a bread, th ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema satisfies his craving for Thai at Talent Thai Kitchen, where "the food on the aggressively pan-Thai menu is worth whatever wait you have to endure." Sarah DiGregorio discovers "what happens when you barbecue duck over an oak fire" at Fatty 'Cue. (Hint: good th ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds the menu at Faustina to be "a playful and innovative take on Italian cuisine." Sarah DiGregorio discovers down-home Indian at Bhojan, where despite the small-plates designation, "dishes are actually rather generous and the list mainly offers sharable str ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema finds that, "despite the bittersweet reflection that, if you adore a dish you've eaten, you'll never see it again, the food at Roman's can be spectacular." Sarah DiGregorio enjoys a Japanese invasion of Koreatown at Izakaya Moku. Sam Sifton discovers a relat ... More >>
Calvin GodfreyThis week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema marvels at the German and Korean influences at M & T Restaurant, a new Quingdao in Flushing. Sam Sifton knocks a star off the reinvented Oceana, deeming the new version to be "a high-functioning luxury mill... a very good restaurant. But ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema struts on down to former discotheque Abe & Arthur's, where despite "some painfully stupid starters... you'd do well to make a meal of apps," while Sarah DiGregorio suffers the sound system at Laut, which manages to nail both iconic versions of laksa, t ... More >>
This week in the Voice, check out our Best Of New York eats, from best bacon to best sustainable fish. Sam Sifton pens a three-star love letter to Marea, comparing the sea urchin and lardo crostini to "kissing an extremely attractive person for the first time." [NY Times] Adam Platt rains on Jose ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema gets transported to Rome at Quinto Quarto. Pete Wells loosens his grip on his precious stars to award two to Saul Bolton's eponymous restaurant in Brooklyn, despite his nostalgia for the original 1999 menu. [NY Times] Adam Platt finds that "the more ambitio ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema discovers the shocking flavors of the Chinese province of Shandong at Golden Palace. Pete Wells is unimpressed with Gus and Gabriel, crediting Michael Psilakis with having "perfected a new technology that magically strips out all the taste" from his burger. ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema falls for Frenchy Joseph Leonard, while Sarah DiGregorio suffers the service at would-be private club Mari Vanna. Betsy Andrews explores the culinary offerings of Staten Island, which may not be reachable by subway but "given the inexpensive tabs, you can af ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema makes a meal of apps at new Bed-Stuy pizzeria Saraghina... and the pizza's not bad, either. Bruni shocks us all by making his final review a one-star for The Redhead in the East Village, where "the fried chicken is never greasy... and a roasted pork chop is ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema finds shrimp in his mash at Watty & Meg, while Sarah DiGregorio samples the pun-filled menu at Pho Sure. Bruni pays a visit to Aldea, where he feels that George Mendes's "usually intelligent, intriguing and highly skilled work is undercut at times by a tende ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema swims over to Harbour, although he isn't sure enough of his fellow New Yorkers will follow suit, while Sarah DiGregorio tries to stomach stinky tofu at Andy's Seafood & Grill. Jay Cheshes is less lukewarm about Harbour, with its chef Joe Isidori, who "cooks ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema gets a hot spice injection at Southern Spice in Flushing, while Sarah DiGregorio goes cold-cut crazy at two new East Village charcuterie specialists. Bruni indulges in mussel mania at Canadian import Flex Mussels, which "approaches mussels the way Baskin-Rob ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema gets his fish on at Sol-Mar, while Sarah DiGregorio follows the ramen craze to Brooklyn at ZuZu Ramen. Bruni enjoys some "lovely fish" at Fishtail by David Burke, but is most impressed by the cauliflower. [NY Times] Adam Platt has "expertly crisped" whole b ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers unreconstructed Sichuan fare at Bensonhurst's Bamboo Pavilion, while Sarah DiGregorio visits the oddly addictive Wechsler's Currywurst & Bratwurst. Bruni drops in on Co., awarding it one star for its "fluffy, crunchy, supple, dense" pizza crust, al ... More >>
There are many more sane ways to cozy up on a snowy day, but for some reason, today I got it into my head that I should go try the phaal at Brick Lane Curry House. Phaal is a chile-spiked curry, possibly South Indian in origin, that's zapped to almost unimaginable heat levels at Brick Lane, where t ... More >>
Wondering just how and why Toby Young scored the Top Chef judge gig? Us too.As we suspected, it had a lot to do with his nationality. As demonstrated by Simon Cowell, America loves a bitchy Brit at the reality show table. Talking to Yahoo TV, Young concedes that he got the Bravo call out of the blue ... More >>
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