Jay Cheshes

  • Blogs

    April 3, 2013

    New Restaurant Reviews: Three Letters Asks 'Parlez-Vous Brooklyn?'; Cata Serves Sublime Paella

    This week, our critics were equally charmed by a petite French bistro and a bustling Bowery tapas joint. Robert Sietsema dug into a mussels poutine at Three Letters in Clinton Hill, while Tejal Rao scooped up hearty bites of paella at Cata on the Lower East Side. Will the professionals go back for ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 27, 2012

    London Calling Brooklyn at Dear Bushwick; Chinese by Way of Peru at Chifa

    This week, Tejal Rao checks in at a "spot of warmth" on the otherwise gloomy Wilson Avenue, Dear Bushwick. Having previously honed her skills at Goat Town, chef Jessica Wilson offers "English-inspired dishes with American ingredients" and assures us that "this is the sort of simple, seasonal food th ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 18, 2012

    Robert Sietsema at Chao Thai Too; Tejal Rao at Sel et Gras

    Robert Sietsema is at Chao Thai Too, maybe one of the best Thai places in the city. He notes that they serve blood Jell-O "interspersed with pork meatballs, and crispy stir-fried frog legs flavored with basil (pad kra prao kob). Gnaw on these, and you might never go back to chicken wings." Tejal R ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 3, 2012

    Robert Sietsema at Rural Restaurant, Tejal Rao at Comodo

    Robert Sietsema goes to Rural Restaurant, a northeast Chinese eatery in Flushing. The food shows Korean, Mongolian, and Russian influences: "Speaking of deals, pescatarians will go gaga over the flounder version of the recipe--an entire fish thickly crusted with cumin, red-pepper flakes, garlic, and ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 12, 2012

    Robert Sietsema at Potlikker; Tejal Rao at Jezebel

    Robert Sietsema says that the food at Potlikker has an improvised quality and that the dishes come out a bit inconsistent: "My biggest complaint is that there's no actual potlikker on the menu, as the name of the place promises. Swabbed with a savory version of the Dutch pancake, and sided with plen ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 8, 2012

    Robert Sietsema at Hazar; Tejal Rao at Ken & Cook

    See what NYC's restaurant critics have been up to this week: Robert Sietsema recommends Hazar as a place to take both your carnivore and vegetarian friends. He also crowns Hazar's falafel as the best in the city: "Pleasingly studded with sesame seeds, they're aerodynamically streamlined like Frisbe ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 1, 2012

    Robert Sietsema at Rosemary's; Tejal Rao at Hillside

    See what NYC's restaurant critics have been up to this week: Robert Sietsema files a piece on Rosemary's in the West Village. He compares the restaurant's recipes to that of Italian pasta guru Alfredo Viazzi: "While one is often well-advised not to stray into secondi in Tuscan-style restaurants bec ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 15, 2012

    Tejal Rao at Pok Pok Ny; Robert Sietsema on Eldridge Street

    Tejal Rao fights the crowds and manages to snatch a seat at Pok Pok Ny: "Ricker gives traditional dishes attention and respect but doesn't fetishize them or price them unreasonably. That's why there are crowds. Go! You're likely to enjoy most every dish, unless you bring along a killjoy who insists ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 21, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Taiwanese Specialties; Lauren Shockey at Forcella

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples fly heads and chicken neck at Taiwainese Specialties; Lauren Shockey indulges in the deep-fried pies at Forcella.Liz BarclayTaiwanese Specialties​ Sam Sifton praises St. Anselm for the "pulsing bass line of ambition beneath its simple steakhouse ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 14, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Birreria; Lauren Shockey at Left Bank

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema ascends to the summit of Eataly, to Birreria, where "the food is superb." Lauren Shockey is not so impressed by Left Bank: "Although the food and exceptionally friendly service more than pass muster, the culinary creativity is, well, lacking." Sam Sifton, in ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 17, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at St. Anselm

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds mostly hits and a few misses at the recently reopened St. Anselm: "The appetizers were terrif... Which is not to say a steady hand always rested on the tiller of the restaurant." Sam Sifton approves of Danji: "Hooni Kim, who opened this place in Decembe ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 10, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at New World Mall Food Court

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples the goods at the New World Mall Food Court in Flushing: "After being disappointed by the Sichuan fare, we quickly switched to other Chinese regions and found ourselves more satisfied." Sam Sifton awards two stars to Boulud Sud: "To the list of terrifi ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 3, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Boulud Sud; Lauren Shockey at Hospoda

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema is impressed by Boulud Sud: "Despite a few missteps, this is summer cooking par excellence, and the lightness of the food combined with the smallness of the portions means you won't drift away bloated into the sultry summer evening." Lauren Shockey falls for H ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 20, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at The Trilby

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds "unexpectedly grand" food at The Trilby, the latest incarnation of The Cooper Square Hotel's restaurant. Steve Cuozzo finds hits and misses at Boulud Sud: "Its creations vary in finesse, as they do in origin. 'Sud?' my Paris-born friend sniffed of the w ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 22, 2011

    Sietsema Judges Plethora of Pizzas at 900 Degrees; Shockey Spends Big at Bouley's Brushstroke

    No, 900 Degrees isn't a new boyband; it's the Greenwich Village offshoot of a San Francisco pizzeria, where the Voice's Robert Sietsema was a bit overwhelmed by the six different categories of pizza, from the fantastic Naples pies to the "rib-sticking, but unremarkable" thick Sicilian pies to the gi ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 1, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Empellon; Lauren Shockey at Imperial No. Nine

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema sees what famed pastry chef Alex Stupak can do at Empellon: "The tacos are magnificent... Using his gastronomic prowess, Stupak has sent the flavors soaring." Lauren Shockey finds hits and misses at Imperial No. Nine: "Some dishes fail completely... But other ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 11, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Coppelia; Lauren Shockey at The Brooklyn Star

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds that "the food runs from inspired to terrible" at Coppelia; Lauren Shockey drinks the Kool-Aid at the Brooklyn Star. Sam Sifton awards The National Bar and Dining Rooms one star: "[The décor] is appetizing, as it happens: it is the sort of restaurant w ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 4, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Papaye, Uptown African Restaurant and Accra; Lauren Shockey at Tenpenny

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema goes West African at Papaye, Uptown African Restaurant, and Accra. Lauren Shockey finds fun and value in Midtown at Tenpenny.​ Sam Sifton discovers the reason Brooklyn Heightians are staying close to home these days, awarding Colonie one star: "Long and ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 27, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Hofbräu Bierhaus; Lauren Shockey at La Silhouette

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds Munich in Midtown at Hofbräu Bierhaus; Lauren Shockey is charmed by old-fashioned La Silhouette. Sam Sifton awards three stars to the Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare, raving, "What [César] Ramirez is doing at the Chef's Table is entirely his own p ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 26, 2011

    Four Loko Founders Break Their Silence

    Victoria BekiempkisFour Loko founders: "We're the victims here."​Jay Cheshes takes a break from eating for Time Out to talk to the founders of Four Loko for The Fix. This must-read examines how the caffeinated cocktail in a can came to be and just what led to its downfall (which, of course, is ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 16, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Main Street Imperial Taiwanese Gourmet; Lauren Shockey at the John Dory Oyster Bar

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema delves into authentic Taiwanese at Main Street Imperial Taiwanese Gourmet, while Lauren Shockey finds a few things fishy at the John Dory Oyster Bar.​ Sam Sifton lets Veritas keep its three stars, pronouncing it "now worth visiting again. ... [Chef Sam ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 23, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Dai Wah Yummy City; Lauren Shockey at Breuckelen

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema heads to Bensonhurst's Dai Wah Yummy City: "The menu features exactly what the adults crave: Cantonese food with Hong Kong flourishes, plus dishes from other regions of China that have been popularized and added to the southern Chinese canon." Lauren Shockey i ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 16, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Red Rooster; Lauren Shockey at Edi & The Wolf

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema enjoys the "wacky fusion" of East African, Scandinavian, and North American at Red Rooster; Lauren Shockey gets her schnitzel on at Edi & The Wolf. Sam Sifton echoes what pretty much every critic has to say about Bar Basque: "there is much to enjoy about eati ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 9, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Andre's Café; Lauren Shockey at Mary Queen of Scots

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers authentic Hungarian comfort food on the Upper East Side; Lauren Shockey is bored by oodles of tartan and whiskey at Mary Queen of Scots. San Sifton is charmed by Hunan Kitchen of Grand Sichuan: "Those who recall when Chinese food first began to matt ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 22, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at Polonica; Lauren Shockey at Osteria Morini

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema gets drunk on gravy at Polonica; Lauren Shockey manages to not turn into a fat tortellini at Osteria Morini. Sam Sifton approves of Anella: "the food is a wonder: a tight and focused menu of simple, seasonally appropriate food from Joseph Ogrodnek, a talented ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 8, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at Harold Dieterle's Kin Shop

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema approves of Kin Shop: "When [Harold Dieterle] debuted Perilla in 2007, it wasn't a marquee assignment, but a small West Village bistro that gradually attracted a fervent following. Now, after a measured period of time, he's opened a second place a few blocks d ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 1, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at Umi Nom

    Robert Sietsema samples balut (duck embryo) and other pan-Asian treats at Umi Nom. Sam Sifton awards one star to Osteria Morini, where "pastas glisten with pork fat, with butter, with cream, with oil. They are aggressively salted. They hang around on the outskirts of Too Much. ... [Chef Michael] Wh ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 20, 2010

    Sam Sifton Previews Eataly; Ryan Sutton Slams Del Posto

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema, Sarah DiGregorio, and Rebecca Marx reveal their top picks for eats and treats in the city. Elsewhere... Sam Sifton offers an early look at Eataly: "It's groceries. To be fair, though: those groceries are pretty good... Il Pesce is worth visiting... There is ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 28, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at Buka; Sarah DiGregorio at Mrs. Kim's

    This week in The Voice, Robert Sietsema sees his goat-head stew staring back at him at Buka in Clinton Hill, while Sarah DiGregorio finds that new neighborhood Korean Mrs. Kim's hits the mark in Greenpoint. Sam Sifton finds the food at The Lion okay, but complains that it "swapped the warm exclusiv ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 14, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at Momokawa; Sarah DiGregorio at Má Pêche

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples the "venerable micro-cuisine" of Kyoto at Momokawa, while Sarah DiGregorio heads to Má Pêche, where chef Tien Ho "is doing some remarkable cooking," but the room kinda sucks. Sam Sifton also files on Má Pêche today: "The food is not quite as preci ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 7, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at Katmandu Spice; Sarah DiGregorio on Twain's Feast

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema uncovers Brazilian-Nepalese fusion at Katmandu Spice. Sarah DiGregorio takes a break from eating to read Twain's Feast: Searching for America's Lost Foods in the Footsteps of Samuel Clemens. Sam Sifton awards Kenmare no stars, proclaiming that: "the food is i ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 23, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at The Commodore; Sarah DiGregorio at Takashi

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema has a stiff drink and the usual "retro-Southern-locavoric-hash-house fare" at The Commodore in Williamsburg. Sarah DiGregorio chews on some raw tripe and grills beef heart at Takashi. Sam Sifton approves of the newly reopened Annisa, where Anita Lo, "is not b ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 16, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at Halikarnas and Marmaris; Sarah DiGregorio at 5 & Diamond

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema takes to Sheepshead Bay to visit Halikarnas and Marmaris, two competing Turkish seafood spots; while Sarah DiGregorio heads up to Harlem to see just how Twitter-happy chef Ryan Skeen is holding up at 5 & Diamond. Sam Sifton approves of Takashi: "a modest and ... More >>

  • Dining

    May 18, 2010

    Downtown's New Haunt: Kenmare Restaurant

    On the Lower East Side, Sam Sifton meets the ghost of EC Comics

  • Blogs

    May 12, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at Casa Calamari; Sarah DiGregorio at d.o.b. 111 & Mikey's Burger

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema visits Casa Calamari, "one of Brooklyn's last great focaccerias." Sarah DiGregorio checks out Michael "Bao" Huynh's latest: d.o.b. 111 and Mikey's Burger. Sam Sifton awards Fatty 'Cue a star. Despite it being "dark and shouty inside... the food is incredibly ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 31, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at Hibino; Sarah DiGregorio at El Quinto Pino

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers the "heart of Japanese cuisine" at Hibino in Cobble Hill; Sarah DiGregorio finds a few missteps at El Quinto Pino, but doesn't mind because "the place is fun, and spirited." Sam Sifton awards Recette two stars, despite the restaurant earning tepid r ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 17, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at Red Sea 47; Sarah DiGregorio at Recette

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds a few redeeming dishes among the blandness at Red Sea 47; Sarah DiGregorio loses her shirt trying to get full at Recette. Sam Sifton awards Motorino one star, declaring that it "serves the city's best pizza.... consistently, at both locations." [NY Time ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 11, 2010

    Brady Duhame Out at Robert, Citing Creative Differences

    Brady and Robert part ways.​Just two months into the position -- and a day after a negative review from Time Out's Jay Cheshes, Grub Street

  • Blogs

    February 3, 2010

    Sietsema at Sapthagiri; DiGregorio at Torrisi Italian Specialties and Despana

    This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema samples an array of vegetarian southern Indian, including Jain and Swaminarayan food, at Sapthagiri in Jersey City. Sarah DiGregorio makes a couple of meals out of the Italian-American bites at Torrisi Italian Specialties and the Spanish tapas at Despana. Sa ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 16, 2009

    Under Review: Sietsema at The Vanderbilt; DiGregorio on a Citywide Martini Crawl

    This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema is Brooklyn-bound for The Vanderbilt, where "partners Saul Bolton and Ben Daitz pride themselves on their homemade sausages"; while Sarah DiGregorio bellies up to a couple different bars in search of the perfect martini. Sam Sifton offers up a two-fer this w ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 2, 2009

    Under Review: Sietsema at Saltie; DiGregorio at Mercat Negre

    This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema sets sail for deliciousness at the nautically inspired Saltie, while Sarah DiGregorio discovers authentic Catalan at Mercat Negre. Sam Sifton finds what while "certainly there is excellent food at SD26... the answer to changing tastes is not perhaps to... in ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 25, 2009

    Under Review: Sietsema at Ovelia Psistaria; DiGregorio at Los Feliz & Dos Toros

    This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema follows the call of the best fries in town to Greek grillmaster Ovelia Psistaria, while Sarah DiGregorio delves into the different flavors of Mexicana at Los Feliz & Dos Toros. Sam Sifton approves of A Voce Columbus, despite it being "a corporate enterprise, ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 18, 2009

    Under Review: Sietsema at New Flushing Quingdao M & T Restaurant

    Calvin Godfrey​This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema marvels at the German and Korean influences at M & T Restaurant, a new Quingdao in Flushing. Sam Sifton knocks a star off the reinvented Oceana, deeming the new version to be "a high-functioning luxury mill... a very good restaurant. But ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 4, 2009

    Under Review: Sietsema at Ambiance; DiGregorio at SD26

    This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema gets well fed at Ambiance in Carnasie, while Sarah DiGregorio tries to find warmth at SD26. Sam Sifton drops in on Le Relais de Venise l'Entrecote, where there is "no real menu to speak of. There is only salad and steak frites... And you know what? It's terr ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 2, 2009

    Under Review: Sietsema at East Harbor Seafood Palace; DiGregorio at the Standard Grill

    This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema gets a hill of dim sum and then some at East Harbor Seafood Palace, while Sarah DiGregorio manages to wrangle a table at the Standard Grill. Julia Moskin samples shojin ryori, or "devotion cuisine," at Kajitsu, where "vegetables... are twisted and turned, sa ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 7, 2009

    The Blogroll Gazette: The Many (Possible) Faces of Sam Sifton; Is Momo Midtown On Its Way?

    This week in food blogs... Eat Me Daily imagined what sort of disguises Sam Sifton might use to hide his already public identity, including a retro Batman mask, Gael Greene-style hat, and Donald Trump wig. Midtown Lunch got excited at the prospect of a MomoMidtown... or is it MidtownFuku? Rumor ha ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 29, 2009

    Under Review: Sietsema at The Smith; DiGregorio at DBGB

    This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema drops in one what might be the city's "most perfect gastropub yet": The Smith; while Sarah DiGregorio revels in the sausages at DBGB. Former Top Chef darling Govind Armstrong gets no stars out of Bruni for the food at the New York outpost of his L.A. restaur ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 24, 2009

    Under Review--Sietsema At An Choi; DiGregorio At Aldea

    This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema puts newcomer An Choi's banh mi to the test; while Sarah DiGregorio ducks it up Iberian-style at Aldea. Bruni knocks two stars off of Spice Market now that the restaurant has expanded to Atlanta, Istanbul and Doha, Qatar, which could be the reason "sloppines ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 17, 2009

    Under Review--Sietsema At Hunan House

    This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema samples the flavors of Mao country at Hunan House, where we're told the specialty is "spicy whole fish and fish heads, preserved meat, dried bean curd, and lots of what's inside a cow and pig, too." Bruni finds his way to Rye in Williamsburg, where he isn't ... More >>

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