Just a few blocks from where John Fraser is doing his unique spin on vegetable-forward cooking at Narcissa comes a new restaurant with a similar focus: Aprés (60 Third Avenue, 212-254-0888) opens tonight under Apiary managing partner Jenny Moon and chef Mazen Mustafa, who will put out a board of d ... More >>
This week, I visited Narcissa (21 Cooper Square, 212-228-3344), the well-groomed farm-to-table restaurant in the Standard East Village hotel where John Fraser lets his DOH-approved hairnet down and transforms vegetables in a kitchen full of Rotisol rotisserie ovens. It's the sibling restaurant to th ... More >>
Home on the range
Zachary Feldman stops into Narcissa (21 Cooper Square) for this week's review, where he finds Dovetail's John Fraser working his familiar vegetable magic in a setting that's far from precious. "Narcissa appears almost defiantly modern," he writes. "You'll find no obscure agricultural tools or bales ... More >>
At Distilled (211 West Broadway, 212-601-9514) in Tribeca, chef Shane Lyons cooks a menu of inspired New American pub food from a gorgeous space in a landmark building. When the kitchen's cranking out plates of fried duck over waffles and the restaurant's signature gochujang-slathered wings, Lyons c ... More >>
Don't get us wrong -- the potato is a fine food, and French fries? Hell, they're scalding hot oil's gift to the world (suck it, state fair beer-battered stick of butter). But as vegetables become a larger part of the American diet, chefs around town are throwing leafy greens, roots, and even the occ ... More >>
Rex Huang has a decade on most of the people in his line of work, and that's a good thing, because having less time for self-exploration keeps him focused. He left behind a career in business for the burners, getting his start in the business when he asked for one day to prove his worth as a stage a ... More >>
Recette sous chef Audrey Villegas likes to cook at 1 in the morning after the guests are gone. She has an edge-of-your-seat intensity when she talks about bean season; she got it from interning at Per Se when she was 24. After that, she toughed it out in the trenches at Gordon Ramsay and, briefly, D ... More >>
It's been six years since John Fraser first opened the doors to Dovetail (103 West 77th Street, 212-362-3800), the Upper West Side restaurant that's both a neighborhood joint and an international destination, and it's success is as much a product of its owner's unrelenting drive to grow and evolve a ... More >>
Some of the best sommeliers in NYC are female, and these ladies not only know their wine, they effusively share their knowledge with customers and friends without any of the pretension often (rightly or wrongly) associated with that, ahem, other species of somm. Although the Standard East Village' ... More >>
That The Standard, rooted in the meatpacking district, is a beacon not just for tourists but also for New Yorkers can be chalked up to the hotel's dining savvy -- crowds pack the beer garden to capacity year-round, and though we all like to whine about the chaos, most of us find ourselves there from ... More >>
When August Cardona isn't running a burgeoning Italian empire -- the CEO of Epicurean Management oversees Dell'anima, L'Artusi, L'Apicio, and Anfora -- he's pursuing a relatively new hobby: boxing. "I played sports my whole life," he explains. "I made it a point to keep in shape. Shortly after ope ... More >>
Step into Northern Spy Food Co., and you'll likely spot Hadley Schmitt quietly and methodically working in his sliver of an open kitchen near the back of the space. Though he looks quite young, his demeanor is outs him as a seasoned pro, the product of a long career that began when his sister landed ... More >>
When much-lauded chef John Fraser isn't tending the pass at Dovetail, the acclaimed Upper West Side restaurant he opened in late 2007, he's living a lifestyle that includes vegetable-forward eating and practicing Muay Thai, a form of Mixed Martial Arts known also as Thai boxing. His personal diet ma ... More >>
There are plenty of vegetarian-friendly restaurants in New York. Some deal in chewy gluten strips and meat facsimiles, others turn out raw foods and seed pastes, but there are plenty of places where you don't need to be a devotee to enjoy the food. Go for a meatless meal at these restaurants for a ... More >>
Yet another chef gets on the booze.Earlier this year, we learned that John Fraser was serving a proprietary gin at What Happens When. Now, it looks like Julian Medina has his own tequila.
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers "the city's most intimate look at today's Lebanese vernacular cuisine" at Man'ouChe; Lauren Shockey finds hits and misses at Spasso. Sam Sifton revisits Gotham Bar and Grill, allowing it to retain its three stars: "A meal at Gotham is about y ... More >>
Photo courtesy of AnnisaShe's smiling for a reason.People may continue to argue about how hard it is to be a female chef, but one thing it seems that everyone can agree on is that Anita Lo is in a badass class of her own.
Auguste Renoir's "Luncheon of the Boating Party"At Fork in the Road HQ, today only means one thing, and that's Choice Eats. But to fans of John Fraser and lovers of ephemeral dining experiences, it means something else, and that is the launch of the third movement of What Happens When. And wh ... More >>
[Insert (anti-)foodie cause here.]Food has always been political, but seems to be so now more than ever, what with issues like school lunches and food labeling taking the spotlight on the national stage. And so, it should come as no surprise that New York's gourmet food trucks have gone from ... More >>
emiliebaltzWhat Happens When's Titania The second "movement" of John Fraser's temporary restaurant installation (don't call it a pop-up) What Happens When is in full swing, and much of the blogosphere has been weighing in on the food and space. But one interesting part of the menu has remain ... More >>
What Happens When, John Fraser's ever-changing restaurant/installation/culinary fantasia, begins its second life today.
Emilie BaltzWhat foods put John Fraser in the mood? Read and find out. Yesterday we spoke with What Happens When chef John Fraser about the challenges and rewards of creating a temporary and evolving restaurant. Today, with Valentine's Day looming overhead, we change gears and talk about th ... More >>
Once again, we have made it to Friday afternoon. And so it is time to look back at the week that preceded it. Our 10 Best Restaurants for a Break-Up. The Early Word on Yuba. On Valentine's Day, drink Cienfuegos' Fuego de Pasion.
Emilie BaltzWhat happens when John Fraser's in the kitchen? Deliciousness. Dovetail chef John Fraser's newest project, What Happens When, isn't quite like any restaurant that's existed before. Namely because the "temporary restaurant installation" changes its whole concept and menu every mon ... More >>
John FraserWhat Happens When has opened for business. According to its publicity materials, it is not a pop-up restaurant, but a "revolving restaurant installation."
Restaurants and bars, they come and they go. Here are a few making their debuts and bowing out this week. La Taqueria in Park Slope has closed completely after downsizing from sit-down restaurant to takeout joint in October. [Eater] East Village vegan café the Little Bird appears to be closed and ... More >>
Trans fats labels may be misleading due to a law that allows foods containing less than 0.5 g of trans fat to claim they have none at all. [CBS News] The Post's dining trends forecast for 2011 includes pizza, German and Austrian wine bars, and chefs from Montreal. [NY Post] Movie theater c ... More >>
It's not as exciting as ramps to most foodies, but watercress has been gaining a following among both chefs and home cooks, and it's in season now. [NY Times] Food photography in restaurants is getting out of hand. Dovetail's John Fraser has had customers set up tripods. Momofuku Ko, La Esqu ... More >>
Will the spirit of James Beard smile upon New York chefs?The James Beard Foundation announced its list of semi-finalists for the annual James Beard Awards today, kicking off the food world's very own Oscar season scrum. The semi-finalists were selected from a pool of 21,000 online entries; th ... More >>
Dovetail, pre-renovation.Just as Mario Batali has shrunk Del Posto in his quest for the NYT stamp of approval, Dovetail has added 20 seats to its dining room and 500 bottles to its wine list. According to a rep, John Fraser's Upper West Side New American restaurant will also boast a new somme ... More >>
A look back at the best posts of the past five days:Our Top 10 Favorite Frozen Treats.Toast Mad Men's new season with a Breathless Martini.Battle of the Dishes pitted egg creams from Katz's and Russ & Daughters against one another.Gramercy Tavern bartender Brad Hillman brews beer in his Brooklyn ... More >>
Photo by Emilie BaltzJohn Fraser has helmed the kitchen at critically acclaimed Dovetail since its opening in late 2007. Fraser is known for changing his menu with the seasons, and he's just added a slew of new dishes, such as lobster sausage and pork belly with black-eyed peas, calamari, and ... More >>
The semifinalists for the illustrious James Beard awards have been announced, with a quite a few hometown favorites in the lot, including Dan Barber and Tom Colicchio in the the Outstanding Chef category; Babba and Jean George for Outstanding Restaurant; Corton, Momofuku Ko, and Scarpetta for ... More >>
Give this man some turkey skin Today, we're playing Recipe Improv with chef John Fraser of Dovetail (103 West 77th Street). Before opening Dovetail last December, Fraser worked stints at the French Laundry, at Taillevent in Paris, and Compass in New York. Since our great day of national gluttony i ... More >>