Spring is (finally) in the air and the warm weather seems to be lightening our moods as well as our wardrobes. Did the rising temperatures have the same effect on our critics? Tejal Rao has mixed feelings about Manzanilla in Gramercy, while Robert Sietsema writes a rave for Cathedral in Flatbush. R ... More >>
This week, Robert Sietsema introduces his meal of crossing-bridge-noodles at Tribeca's Lotus Blue through a Yunnan folktale. Further uptown, Tejal Rao reminisces about the highs and lows of restaurant staff meals before exploring the Upper West Side's new Mexican comfort-food restaurant, Cocina Econ ... More >>
For our own Robert Sietsema, hearing the name Sweet Yummy House "conjured up gingerbread dwellings deep in the woods made by witches." In reality, the Elmhurst restaurant is one of the city's newest Sichuan restaurants, specializing in "delicious peculiarities resulting from fusion with other cuisin ... More >>
Our own Robert Sietsema stumbles upon the new and under publicized Noho bistro, Le Philosophe, and finds that it's a "wonderful place." He writes in his review of Le Philosophe that a slightly grayish "mural depicting dozens of philosophers" looms behind diners in the candlelit space. But he barely ... More >>
Tejal Rao took a break from professional eating this week, but our own Robert Sietsema kept at it by checking in at Le Midi Bistro. Located in a former East Village Woolworth's building and karaoke den, Sietsema notes in his review of Le Midi that the restaurant "is one of those old-school bistros w ... More >>
This week, Tejal Rao tries the pasta and polenta boards at L'Apicio, the new "glassy cathedral" on the Bowery from partners Gabe Thompson and Joe Campanale, where Rao says if you added a parking lot "it could be that one restaurant in every American town where the people with money come." While she ... More >>
This week, our own Tejal Rao found the beauty in buckwheat at Nolita's Cocoron. Of the restaurant's signature soba, she writes that "the noodles here have soul and bite. A massive pot of water rolls in the back of the kitchen, sending up a clean, perfumed steam." This second location for husband an ... More >>
Our own Tejal Rao visits former Top Chef contestant Leah Cohen's Lower East Side South Asian restaurant, Pig and Khao, and finds the outcome boisterous and inconsistent. While Cohen's ability to cook is evident in the noodle curry khao soi which is "full of quality crunch and chew," the crispy pata ... More >>
The Voice's Tejal Rao scored a coveted counter seat at Atera, Chef Matthew Lightner's avant garde Tribeca restaurant. The 25 or so courses include sweetbreads with "a barbecue-flavored coating so powerfully sticky that it slows down time, lengthening its gentle flavors, hushing conversation." The V ... More >>
It all started with a tweet. In touting a pleasing omnibus collection of bread dips at Balkanika, I described it as: "My favorite vegetarian (and nearly vegan) meal of the last few months," having forgotten that the small bowl of taramosalata in the center contained fish eggs. Luckily, Michael Hoff ... More >>
Robert Sietsema says that Singaporean joint Masak is Asian rustic: "But instead of making diners dodge crab-shell fragments like at Fatty Crab, Masak delivers the primmer and more approachable chili crab dip." Tejal Rao heads out to DUMBO and eats at Governor, where she notes that the chef is both ... More >>
[See More Under Review: Robert Sietsema At Ootoya; Tejal Rao At Sorella | Robert Sietsema at Hazar; Tejal Rao at Ken & Cook Robert Sietsema goes to Ootoya, also known as "the Denny's of Japan." There's a lot of diversity in the menu and save for the skanky sea urchin, the restaurant did fairly well ... More >>
See what NYC's restaurant critics have been up to this week: Tejal Rao goes to Reynards at the Wythe Hotel and advises patrons to look out for the specials: "A dish of whole fried sardines, layered like the petals of some awesome flower, came one afternoon with roasted potatoes, yogurt, and a gene ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds that dinner always ends well at Bedford Avenue newcomer Allswell. He especially relishes the porcine plates: "Instead of the usual rubbery strips, one starter featured an entire fried pig ear facing upward -- as if pleading for you to repeat something yo ... More >>
Don't clam up. This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema bites into bivalves at Littleneck, a Gowanus clam shack: "The most spectacular appearance of Brooklyn's iconic bivalve is on a clam roll ($16), featuring full-belly littlenecks with creamy tartar sauce and a few shreds of lettuce for colo ... More >>
Going bananas for Malay platesThis week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples screwpine at Banana Leaf, Sunset Park's new Malaysian outpost. Slurp the super-sour asam laksa for a true sense of the archipelago's aromas. Eric Asimov savors Sushi Yasuda. His verdict: Even with the departure of ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema is shocked to find that, at Neely's Barbecue Parlor, "Much of the food is good, despite hatred of the restaurant spewed by Yelpers and others." Lauren Shockey is charmed by Do or Dine, which "embraces a youthful (but still professional) spirit of chance-taking ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples the goods at the New World Mall Food Court in Flushing: "After being disappointed by the Sichuan fare, we quickly switched to other Chinese regions and found ourselves more satisfied." Sam Sifton awards two stars to Boulud Sud: "To the list of terrifi ... More >>
If you thought nobody could rain on Danny Meyer's publicity parade, then Ryan Sutton would like to hand you an umbrella.
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples Brit bites -- not English tapas! -- at Jones Wood Foundry; Lauren Shockey finds Monument Lane a bit of a bore. Sam Sifton is enchanted by Brushstroke: "The menus are the product of thousands of hours of research and testing by Mr. Bouley and hi ... More >>
Ick versus critic
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema has a gastropub revelation at Dean Street in Prospect Heights, where chef Mike Franzetti "illustrates state-of-the-art principles in gastropub menu construction." Lauren Shockey heads to Bi Lokma for Turkish "chow just like babaanne--er, granny--used to make." ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema revels in authentic German at Heartbreak, proclaiming that "never has there been anything quite like Heartbreak, which seeks to elevate the culinary status of peasant classics." Lauren Shockey pays a visit to Cocoron, which is "poised to change the city's nood ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers a new and delicious breed of pizza bones at Lievito; Lauren Shockey likes the food, but not the boring beige room, at Junoon. Sam Sifton finds hits and misses at Lyon: "Some of the food is excellent. ... Best of all are the restaurant's offer ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema indulges in "Peruvian Viagra" at Lima Limon in Little Latin America; Lauren Shockey discovers classic bistro fare at L'Artiste in Astoria. Sam Sifton awards a mostly enthusiastic two stars to Millesime: "holy cats, is there a beautiful, even exciting b ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema gets drunk on gravy at Polonica; Lauren Shockey manages to not turn into a fat tortellini at Osteria Morini. Sam Sifton approves of Anella: "the food is a wonder: a tight and focused menu of simple, seasonally appropriate food from Joseph Ogrodnek, a talented ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema explores the relationship between New York and Montreal food. Sam Sifton awards two stars to Harold Dieterle's Kin Shop, even though it's not quite authentic Thai: "[It's] an American restaurant that serves food prepared using Thai flavors, a restaurant that ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers unfussy, "amazing!" Northern Chinese at Henan Feng Wei in Flushing. Sam Sifton pokes a bit of fun at expense-account-friendly Lavo: "The menu is Italian by way of a steakhouse, and if the food isn't totally awesome, the portions are huge. You'll lov ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema is disappointed in the fried chicken at Hill Country Chicken: "Further imitating KFC, two types of chicken are offered at Hill Country. Unfortunately, both are severely flawed." Sam Sifton warns to be careful at Peels: "The magic is fleeting. The menu at Peel ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds the food thrilling, but the premises not so much at the beef temple that is Manzo in Eataly. Sam Sifton slums it on the Lower East Side at Xiao Ye, which he deems "an artful misfire: the sort of place that, as [chef-owner Eddie] Huang sadly appears to d ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema reckons that Strong Place "might be the most perfect evocation of the Brooklyn bistro to date." Sarah DiGregorio finds that the food at Gourmet Sweets and Restaurant "is a testament to all the many wonderful things one can make with humble cuts of meat, lentil ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema enjoys simple roasted meats, Yemeni-style, at Bab al Yemen. Sarah DiGregorio deems Hawkers and Bai Cha, "a late-night kill-a-craving joint" and "adequate lunch spot," respectively. Sam Sifton approves of Nuela: "There is good eating at Nuela, if only you can ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers the cuisine of Qingdao, Shandong at Lu Xiang Yuan a/k/a Hong Shun Restaurant, while Sarah DiGregorio finds cozy New American fare with a twist at Thistle Hill Tavern. Sam Sifton awards a star to Fornino Park Slope for its tasty antipasti and ... More >>
This week in The Voice, Robert Sietsema shares his appreciation for I Sodi: "one largely overlooked restaurant in town that has succeeded in reproducing an actual Tuscan bill of fare, such as you might find in roadside osterias near Cortona or Gaiole-in-Chianti." Sarah DiGregorio files on Co Ba in C ... More >>
This week in The Voice, Robert Sietsema sees his goat-head stew staring back at him at Buka in Clinton Hill, while Sarah DiGregorio finds that new neighborhood Korean Mrs. Kim's hits the mark in Greenpoint. Sam Sifton finds the food at The Lion okay, but complains that it "swapped the warm exclusiv ... More >>
This week in The Voice, Robert Sietsema is "pleasantly surprised" by Hong Kongese A-Wah. Sam Sifton awards two stars to Aquavit and new chef Marcus Jernmark's approach of "quiet, seasonal intensity that is well worth investigating." [NY Times] Steve Cuozzo falls for Mari Vanna, which he dee ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds an unchanging temple to Tex-Mex in El Cantinero. Sarah DiGregorio is impressed by pan-Indian Tamarind Tribeca, despite its broad range of cuisines. Sam Sifton finds hits and misses at ABC Kitchen, but still awards it two stars: "The food is great ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples the "deeply scarlet, slow-smoked beef brisket" at Mile End. Sarah DiGregorio checks out Bromo Satay House, where "generally, the meat and fish are delicious, while anything in a broth is not." Sam Sifton awards two stars to Prime Meats for food that " ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema braves the scene at Kenmare, where "the ingredients were unimpeachable, the facile preparation of entrées was a deadly sin." Sarah DiGregorio samples everything plus the pizza at Pulino's, deeming the toppings "undeniably tasty, especially the dryish, concent ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema has the "one of the hottest things" he's tasted all year: Liberian pepper shrimp at Maima's in Jamaica, Queens. Sarah DiGregorio samples the pie at Paulie Gee's, where the crust "burrows into your brain -- a stretchy, bubbly, char-spotted pillow of a bread, th ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema heralded the return of Pies-N-Thighs, where the "fabled fried chicken... remains superlative." Sarah DiGregorio gets her drink on at The Tangled Vine, where the food is "pleasurably simple, wine-friendly," and the largely organic and biodynamic wines are "fair ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds the menu at Faustina to be "a playful and innovative take on Italian cuisine." Sarah DiGregorio discovers down-home Indian at Bhojan, where despite the small-plates designation, "dishes are actually rather generous and the list mainly offers sharable str ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema is fond of Northern Spy, despite "a certain blandness" about the food that can probably be attributed to the Bay Area-style hands-off approach to food preparation. Sarah DiGregorio samples the latest Fujian-owned Lanzhou noodle joint : Kuai An Hand Pull Noodle ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema finds that "it often seems as if Trattoria Cinque isn't trying hard enough to be Roman," while Sarah DiGregorio deems the tipsy parson cake at Tipsy Parson "as likeable as the restaurant." Sam Sifton heads to Madangsui in Koreatown, which "is not much to loo ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema falls for Frenchy Joseph Leonard, while Sarah DiGregorio suffers the service at would-be private club Mari Vanna. Betsy Andrews explores the culinary offerings of Staten Island, which may not be reachable by subway but "given the inexpensive tabs, you can af ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema slums it at Cowgirl Sea Horse, which "offers the type of cooking we used to call 'white trash,'" while Sarah DiGregorio gnaws on lamb bone at Bhatti Indian Grill, where the lamb kebab "dazzles." Restaurant Girl discovers a cozy nook in The Mott, where Chef B ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema checks out four new Thai restaurants in Woodside and Astoria, and will definitely be going back to two of them. Bruni's second-to-last review is a glowing ode to Eleven Madison Park, to which he awards four stars, after raising his rating from two to three s ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema navigates the menu at inconsistent Anella, while Sarah DiGregorio reckons that Govind Armstrong missed the boat at Table 8. Bruni found himself wishing for the "opulence" of A Voce dishes, yet still awards Locanda Verde a two-spot, surmising that, despite th ... More >>
photo: Daniel S. NeunerThe debate over Jim Lahey's new pizza joint, Co., continues. Our own Sarah DiGregorio reviewed it earlier this month and found things "hit or miss." This week, the Daily News' Danyelle Freeman, Bloomberg's Ryan Sutton, and Frank Bruni (in his Times blog) all gave their thought ... More >>
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