For such a colorful plate of food -- roasted green peppers in an ivory puddle dotted with cardinal-red pomegranate seeds and leaves of parsley -- the chile en nogada generates a lot of brow-furrowing. The controversy begins with the dish's provenance, which can be traced to an 1821 Puebla banquet th ... More >>
Early this year, Taqueria Tehuitzingo (578 Ninth Avenue, 646-707-3916) opened an offshoot of its Tenth Avenue bodega in a diminutive stall on Ninth. The splashy font of signage catches the eye of travelers pouring out of Port Authority, filling the spot's five tiny tables for post-expedition plates ... More >>
Like bedfellows and debut albums, we're omnivorous in our tastes, which is why we go to different taquerias for specific tacos -- al pastor here, shrimp tacos there. You want the best cecina? Not here. You have to go to Queens. It is hard to do one thing well, and since a taco has the potential to b ... More >>
Ines Bakery's (948 Fourth Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-788-0594) slim counter space does a brisk after school business selling savory snacks like tortas on house made rolls ($5), pupusas ($3), and ham and cheese sandwiches ($4). But the Sunset Park outlet is, first and foremost, a bakery specializing in sw ... More >>
It was early May when The Black Ant (60 Second Avenue, 212-598-0300), a contemporary Mexican restaurant in the East Village, soft-opened its doors to a select few. There was a sturdy doorman dressed in black consulting a clipboard of names, an actual velvet rope, a truncated red carpet, and one of t ... More >>
This week marks the anniversary of the birth of our nation, and we're betting a number of you will celebrate via the age old practice of hightailing it out of town. If you're sticking around, consider these five exceptionally delicious events.
Gringos love guacamole. Actually, almost everyone in the United States loves guacamole. We consumes millions of pounds a year, in stripmall taquerias and sceney cantinas, rolled up in chain burritos and poured from a hermetically sealed bags purchased in supermarkets, as we have a God-given right to ... More >>
The quilt of melting chihuahua cheese that glues sweet al pastor pork to a gringa Madison comes on a fresh made tortilla -- not the corn kind that has finally been receiving its fair share of attention in NYC, but flour. Cafe el Presidente (30 West 24th Street, 212-242-3491), the new project from th ... More >>
After a month-long residency at Whole Foods and a presences at Brooklyn's foodie bazaar Smorgasburg that commands weekend throngs, Danny Lyu's Cemita's Mexican Sandwich is primed to open a more permanent location for its Poblano-style sandwiches. But does the food warrant it?
The classically trained and 7-Eleven camps meet at Taquitoria (168 Ludlow Street, 212-780-0121), a Lower East Side outpost that puts out the deep-fried rolled tacos known as flautas or taquitos, depending on your school of thought.
If you are of the sort that derives amusement from the ever-changing permutations of modern, fast-food restaurant menus, then Taco Bell's new breakfast roll-out probably caught your eye. Late last month, in an attempt to capture a portion of the early morning market, Taco Bell (785 Flushing Avenue, ... More >>
A multitude of factors have converged to contribute to the drastic lime shortage in the United States this month. Thanks to citrus blight, erratic weather, and inner-state narco politics in Mexico, the price of the little green citrus fruits has skyrocketed, prompting the public to reconsider the ub ... More >>
It's hard to find fault with Mexico 2000 (367A Broadway, Brooklyn, 718-782-3797), the Mexican grocery stalwart on the South side of Williamsburg in the shadow of the J/M/Z line. With a cornucopia of Mexican produce and spices, canned goods, beer, baked goods, lottery tickets, shampoo, and toilet pap ... More >>
It is sometimes said that a good cheesemonger can tell, to the hour, when a wheel of camembert should be eaten. An expert's deep understanding of ripening agents, bloomy rinds, and complex environmental conditions allows him or her to zero in on a cheese's zenith, so you can schedule your dinner par ... More >>
Two round orbs hover in a pool the color of rust, steam rising, seeds from ground dried peppers clinging to their surfaces. At first bite, a rush of the sea laps against earth, layers of toasted chile, garlic, and clove. This is torta de camaron, which sounds like a shrimp sandwich but is actually a ... More >>
Last summer, Williamsburg climbed up the city's totem pole of burritos when Stan's Cafecito (172 Havemeyer Street, 646-626-9175) quietly opened its doors and became the neighborhood's secret cache for tortilla-wrapped breakfasts. Tucked into a tiny alcove between South 2nd and South 3rd, the space i ... More >>
No street seems shift as constantly at St. Marks Place in the East Village. If you keep up with the revolving door of real estate that is the stretch between Cooper Square and Avenue A, you seen the evolution of ramen shops, slice joints, and automats. If you don't stroll down the street for a few w ... More >>
"Our city," writes Scarlett Lindeman in this week's review of Mission Cantina (172 Orchard Street), "is giving Mexico its due." And that's because big name restaurateurs like Danny Bowien have picked up the mantle, digging into the cuisine and making it their own. Bowien's restaurant is producing co ... More >>
The South Side Supper Club recently hosted Rockaway Taco, marshalling a bright blip of summer before the snow cloaked the city yet again. The supper club is held at Nha Toi (160 Havemeyer Street, Brooklyn), a Vietnamese restaurant in Williamsburg that once served bowls of pho until it shuttered last ... More >>
Despite its diminutive size, Ines Bakery (948 Fourth Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-788-0594), a Mexican outpost near Greenwood cemetery, packs it in. On weekdays, when offices are shutting down and schools have run their last bells, the triangular standing room of the bakery fills up as tightly as the glass ... More >>
El Toro Blanco (257 Avenue of the Americas, 212-645-0193), a swank Mexican cantina from the owners of Lure Fishbar and Burger & Barrel, opened in the fall of last year on a prosaic stretch of Sixth Avenue. Dressed in orange, black, and red with leather banquettes and ochre wooden beams, it channels ... More >>
Tlales, also known as chales, talitos, or biuses, are the dregs of the chicharron pot. They are occasionally sold in a commercial context by professional chicharron producers, but even still, these pork crumbles are exceptionally rare, even for Mexican-centric cities like Los Angeles.
El Bombon (75-13 Roosevelt Avenue, Queens, 718-672-6500) is a new addition to the line of Jackson Heights Roosevelt Avenue eateries operating under the rumbling 7 train. The restaurant's icon is an anthropomorphic marshmallow, a sombrero-wearing, taco-clutching sweet; not a sweet, curvy lady, as "el ... More >>
Taco Chulo (318 Grand Street, 718-302-2856), a middle-class taqueria tucked away on Grand Street in Williamsburg, has an expansive open room as big as a dancehall with high ceilings, red walls, and a tiny bar in the back. It fills up early with families sharing taco salads ($11) and seared fish burr ... More >>
Unlike many foodstuffs, the Mexican tamale resists modernization. The process -- making a braised filling, mixing a dough, soaking cornhusks, assembling individual dumplings, wrapping each package, then steaming until cooked through -- is so time-consuming that it enervates even the most eager parti ... More >>
The press blizzard began to blow long before Mission Cantina (172 Orchard Street, 212-254-2233) opened its doors to the public on November 19: Speculation over the space at 172 Orchard being taken over by the Mission Chinese crew, a tomatillo's lob from the basement Chinese restaurant a half-block s ... More >>
Crowds in this city do not always correlate to good taste -- see the hordes that flock to the Tacos Morelos carts in Williamsburg or the East Village instead of the more venerable Jackson Heights restaurant from which the mobile vendors were born. Further proof is Tacos El Bronco (4324 Fourth Avenue ... More >>
Despite good press, Xixa (241 South 4th Street, Brooklyn, 718-388-8860) -- the second Williamsburg restaurant from the team behind Traif -- remains somewhat hidden on a frightful corner in the shadows of the on-ramp to the Williamsburg bridge. It's lucky that chef Jason Marcus's polyglot cuisine, wh ... More >>
"We don't have espresso drinks, no cappuccinos... just cafe con leche," laments the matron of Sabor a Mexico Taqueria (160 First Avenue, 212-533-4002), a modest Mexican hole-in-the-wall run by a family from Guerrero in the East Village. The four small tables are rarely filled; the occasional local c ... More >>
Retail stores be damned, Christmas is eons from now -- and just think of how many food holidays those crafty corporate vendors could be celebrating in the meantime! Like today, for instance, it's National Nacho Day, surely worthy of a little fanfare. We'll take any old excuse to chow down on a platt ... More >>
Over the summer chef Danny Mena of Hecho en Dumbo made his second foray into cosmopolitan Mexican cuisine with Sembrado (432 East 13th Street, 212-729-4206) in the East Village. The space is slim and sleek, with brushed metal chairs, an exposed brick wall, and a mural of dark, psychedelic flowers at ... More >>
You might look for grooves worn into the sidewalk at the corner of Broadway Avenue and Keap in South Williamsburg: Carlos, an early morning tamale vendor, has been at this same spot almost every Saturday and Sunday for the past 18 years. He pulls up on his bicycle, which is outfitted with a rolling ... More >>
When the New York Times released its taco issue two weeks ago, Ligaya Mishan's Hungry City column, which praised a handful of our city's finer offerings, was simultaneously heralded for highlighting the goods and scoffed at for neglecting dozens of deserving places among the Mexican cuisine cognosce ... More >>
In our frenetic metropolis, the taco evolves at the far ends of a dialectic, either highbrow with pinkies raised or street-level sloppy. But between the white tablecloths and the back-door bodegas is Felipe Mendez's Brooklyn-based empire--the perennially popular La Superior; the chandelier-studded b ... More >>
Though it's a roving taco truck, Tacos El Vagabundo's (Queens Plaza at 40th-41st Street, Sunnyside, 347-276-4522) presence in Sunnyside, Queens is abiding. Every night of the week "The Vagabond" parks on Queens Plaza between 40th and 41st Streets, operating as a nighttime rapid-fire hot-line of burr ... More >>
The fast-food Mexican format that offers quick mindfully-assembled tacos, tortas, and burritos is so popular in the western end of our country, but it has yet to take hold this far east. Unlike big-branch conglomerates serving slop, these types of restaurants serve streamlined Mexican fare, and the ... More >>
Amid Ecuadorian restaurants and laundromats that dot Stockholm Street and Irving Avenue, a Bushwick thoroughfare that has recently seen an uptick in new spots like Fritzl's Lunch Box and Verde Coal Oven Pizza, sits the Santa Ana Deli. Colorful blankets adorn the walls of this corner joint, and they ... More >>
For the this week's Village Voice, I checked out Rippers, a credible burger shack at Rockaway Beach that has been feeding sand encrusted beach-goers with well-made fast food for the past two summers.
A bad flan is very bad thing. Corn syrup-based sauces, curdled eggs, and imitation vanilla are enough to turn a first-time flan eater into a life-long custard hater. But a good flan, the silken alchemy of eggs, milk, and sugar, gently set into a sweet, wobbling cylinder, is a pure delight. And an e ... More >>
Hopefully, you're mid-four-day weekend by now, nursing the wounds from an Independence Day blow-out with a greasy breakfast and a strong bloody mary. As you fuel up to continue the merriness--perhaps with one of our five best Fourth of July weekend events happening over the next couple of days--sett ... More >>
Headed to the LIC Flea & Food this weekend? Bradley Hawks just penned a round-up of 10 great dishes he found at the event last weekend, and it's good guidance for tackling the dozens of vendors. But first, pour yourself a cup of weekend coffee and read up on our top stories of the week.
Chicharron preparado, a popular Mexican snack, has many guises. All start with a crispy chip of chicharron (fried pork skin), which serves as a blank canvas for various toppings and ingredients, an edible platform that highlights the cook's artistic strokes and sprinklings. Some chicharrones prepara ... More >>
More good news for coffee-drinkers in this weekend's New York Times Magazine: Scientists find evidence that coffee intake is linked to longevity. So put on a pot and dig in with good food-related reads you might have missed this week.
It took full, active engagement of the servers' biceps to lower the cochinita pibil onto the table. The pibil, an entire pork shoulder slow-roasted and burnished with achiote, the caramelized crust glistening with its own juices, was a hefty platter. The commanding centerpiece is now being offered ... More >>
Among the cans of Sprite and bottles of Jarritos at Mexican bodegas, restaurants, and grocery-with-a-taqueria-in-back hybrids throughout the city, there may be the occasional can of pulque ($2-$2.50) on the shelf, an alcoholic beverage made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant. Without fizz bu ... More >>
Out on 21st Street in Brooklyn, in the neighborhood that real-estate agents like to call the South Slope but is really Greenwood Heights, is El Tenampa, a large Mexican grocery store with a restaurant in the back. It's a fluorescently lit boxy space where the tortillas are appropriately pliable with ... More >>
The press has been fawning over Salvation Taco, April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman's Mexican-inspired bar in Murray Hill, ever since it opened two months ago, and for good reason--the Bloomfield-ian touches, like lamb on naan, pineapple and pork belly salads, and deep fried pigs ears, a panoply of cr ... More >>
If you ever meandered up Vanderbilt Avenue in search of the Brooklyn Flea, perhaps you've caught a whiff of a toasty, sweet fragrance that's strong enough to dismantle a conversation and prompt pedestrians to stop and wildly sniff the air. "What's that smell?! Baking pastries? Toasted bread?" It's s ... More >>
How lush was my taco? At the invitation of Serious Eats Mexican-food expert Scarlett Lindeman, I visited a newish taqueria in Sunset Park in the shadow of the looming Our Lady of Perpetual Help, Brooklyn's largest Roman Catholic cathedral. The place is called Tacos Cachanilla, and one of the lures ... More >>