Scarlett Lindeman

  • Blogs

    April 16, 2014

    How Small, Immigrant-Owned Taquerias Are Weathering the Lime Shortage

    A multitude of factors have converged to contribute to the drastic lime shortage in the United States this month. Thanks to citrus blight, erratic weather, and inner-state narco politics in Mexico, the price of the little green citrus fruits has skyrocketed, prompting the public to reconsider the ub ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 9, 2014

    Find a Verdant Quesadilla Among the Wares at Mexico 2000

    It's hard to find fault with Mexico 2000 (367A Broadway, Brooklyn, 718-782-3797), the Mexican grocery stalwart on the South side of Williamsburg in the shadow of the J/M/Z line. With a cornucopia of Mexican produce and spices, canned goods, beer, baked goods, lottery tickets, shampoo, and toilet pap ... More >>

  • News

    March 26, 2014
  • Blogs

    March 26, 2014

    Where to Find Great Guacamole

    It is sometimes said that a good cheesemonger can tell, to the hour, when a wheel of camembert should be eaten. An expert's deep understanding of ripening agents, bloomy rinds, and complex environmental conditions allows him or her to zero in on a cheese's zenith, so you can schedule your dinner par ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 25, 2014

    Map: The 99 Essential Restaurants in Lower Manhattan

    This week's Village Voice feature story answers the question many New Yorkers face every night: Where are we going to eat? As a guide, we present 99 Essential Restaurants™ in Lower Manhattan, compiled by Voice food editor Laura Shunk, along with contributors Zachary Feldman, Tom Finkel, Caryn ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 19, 2014

    At South Slope's Country Boys, a Rare Southern Mexican Treat

    Two round orbs hover in a pool the color of rust, steam rising, seeds from ground dried peppers clinging to their surfaces. At first bite, a rush of the sea laps against earth, layers of toasted chile, garlic, and clove. This is torta de camaron, which sounds like a shrimp sandwich but is actually a ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 14, 2014

    Find a Secret Breakfast Burrito Cache at Stan's Cafecito

    Last summer, Williamsburg climbed up the city's totem pole of burritos when Stan's Cafecito (172 Havemeyer Street, 646-626-9175) quietly opened its doors and became the neighborhood's secret cache for tortilla-wrapped breakfasts. Tucked into a tiny alcove between South 2nd and South 3rd, the space i ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 5, 2014

    On an Ever-Changing Strip of Real Estate, the Nachos at Taqueria Diana Have Staying Power

    No street seems shift as constantly at St. Marks Place in the East Village. If you keep up with the revolving door of real estate that is the stretch between Cooper Square and Avenue A, you seen the evolution of ramen shops, slice joints, and automats. If you don't stroll down the street for a few w ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 26, 2014

    Eye Candy From Mission Cantina, This Week's Reviewed Restaurant

    "Our city," writes Scarlett Lindeman in this week's review of Mission Cantina (172 Orchard Street), "is giving Mexico its due." And that's because big name restaurateurs like Danny Bowien have picked up the mantle, digging into the cuisine and making it their own. Bowien's restaurant is producing co ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 26, 2014

    Rockaway Taco Brings a Blip of Summer to Williamsburg

    The South Side Supper Club recently hosted Rockaway Taco, marshalling a bright blip of summer before the snow cloaked the city yet again. The supper club is held at Nha Toi (160 Havemeyer Street, Brooklyn), a Vietnamese restaurant in Williamsburg that once served bowls of pho until it shuttered last ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 20, 2014

    At the Tiny Ines Bakery, Baked Goods and Stand-Out Tortas

    Despite its diminutive size, Ines Bakery (948 Fourth Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-788-0594), a Mexican outpost near Greenwood cemetery, packs it in. On weekdays, when offices are shutting down and schools have run their last bells, the triangular standing room of the bakery fills up as tightly as the glass ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 5, 2014

    El Toro Blanco: A Proustian Ride Through the Taco Bell Drive-Thru

    El Toro Blanco (257 Avenue of the Americas, 212-645-0193), a swank Mexican cantina from the owners of Lure Fishbar and Burger & Barrel, opened in the fall of last year on a prosaic stretch of Sixth Avenue. Dressed in orange, black, and red with leather banquettes and ochre wooden beams, it channels ... More >>

  • Blogs

    January 29, 2014

    Find Super Rare Tlales at Reyes Deli & Grocery

    Tlales, also known as chales, talitos, or biuses, are the dregs of the chicharron pot. They are occasionally sold in a commercial context by professional chicharron producers, but even still, these pork crumbles are exceptionally rare, even for Mexican-centric cities like Los Angeles.

  • Blogs

    January 22, 2014

    El Atoradero Gets a New Home, Continues to Crush It

    Last time we checked in with Lina Chavez, the El Atoradero (800 East 149th Street) bodega owner who fashions some of the city's best carnitas, she was still dragging a cauldron into the center of the room every weekend to cook. Now, she has a proper restaurant right next door: She took over the Mexi ... More >>

  • Blogs

    January 15, 2014

    Quantity and Quality at the New El Bombon

    El Bombon (75-13 Roosevelt Avenue, Queens, 718-672-6500) is a new addition to the line of Jackson Heights Roosevelt Avenue eateries operating under the rumbling 7 train. The restaurant's icon is an anthropomorphic marshmallow, a sombrero-wearing, taco-clutching sweet; not a sweet, curvy lady, as "el ... More >>

  • Blogs

    January 8, 2014

    Taco Chulo's Chile Con Queso Is a Cold Weather Balm

    Taco Chulo (318 Grand Street, 718-302-2856), a middle-class taqueria tucked away on Grand Street in Williamsburg, has an expansive open room as big as a dancehall with high ceilings, red walls, and a tiny bar in the back. It fills up early with families sharing taco salads ($11) and seared fish burr ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 18, 2013

    A Taste of the Mission District With B'klyn Burro Burrito

    A Styrofoam cooler of pre-made burritos dragged from dive to dive may not be the ideal format in which to sample a good burrito. Nevertheless, that's just how Pepe Urquijo, a Bay Area expat, started his business B'klyn Burro Burrito (at Don Pedro's, 90 Manhattan Avenue, Brooklyn) early this year, co ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 11, 2013

    Celebrate Tamale Season at Tamales Mexicanos

    Unlike many foodstuffs, the Mexican tamale resists modernization. The process -- making a braised filling, mixing a dough, soaking cornhusks, assembling individual dumplings, wrapping each package, then steaming until cooked through -- is so time-consuming that it enervates even the most eager parti ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 5, 2013

    An Early Taste of Mission Cantina

    The press blizzard began to blow long before Mission Cantina (172 Orchard Street, 212-254-2233) opened its doors to the public on November 19: Speculation over the space at 172 Orchard being taken over by the Mission Chinese crew, a tomatillo's lob from the basement Chinese restaurant a half-block s ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 4, 2013

    Split From the Crowd and Head to Tacos El Bronco

    Crowds in this city do not always correlate to good taste -- see the hordes that flock to the Tacos Morelos carts in Williamsburg or the East Village instead of the more venerable Jackson Heights restaurant from which the mobile vendors were born. Further proof is Tacos El Bronco (4324 Fourth Avenue ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 20, 2013

    Xixa's Gorditas Shouldn't Be Missed

    Despite good press, Xixa (241 South 4th Street, Brooklyn, 718-388-8860) -- the second Williamsburg restaurant from the team behind Traif -- remains somewhat hidden on a frightful corner in the shadows of the on-ramp to the Williamsburg bridge. It's lucky that chef Jason Marcus's polyglot cuisine, wh ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 13, 2013

    Venture to Tacos y Quesadillas Chilpacingo Gro. for Tlayocos

    The cadre of carts parked outside of the Myrtle-Wyckoff stop in Bushwick have gained another member: Tacos y Quesadillas Chilpancingo Gro. (Wyckoff Avenue between Gates and Myrtle) is a cart based out of Corona, Queens -- where there is an original outpost -- and it has roots in the capital city of ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 6, 2013

    A Mexican Breakfast at Sabor a Mexico

    "We don't have espresso drinks, no cappuccinos... just cafe con leche," laments the matron of Sabor a Mexico Taqueria (160 First Avenue, 212-533-4002), a modest Mexican hole-in-the-wall run by a family from Guerrero in the East Village. The four small tables are rarely filled; the occasional local c ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 6, 2013

    Five Spots for Nachos on National Nacho Day

    Retail stores be damned, Christmas is eons from now -- and just think of how many food holidays those crafty corporate vendors could be celebrating in the meantime! Like today, for instance, it's National Nacho Day, surely worthy of a little fanfare. We'll take any old excuse to chow down on a platt ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 30, 2013

    Mexico City Expats Will Be Happy at Sembrado

    Over the summer chef Danny Mena of Hecho en Dumbo made his second foray into cosmopolitan Mexican cuisine with Sembrado (432 East 13th Street, 212-729-4206) in the East Village. The space is slim and sleek, with brushed metal chairs, an exposed brick wall, and a mural of dark, psychedelic flowers at ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 23, 2013

    Find the Tamalero at Broadway and Keap: The Tamales Are too Good to Share

    You might look for grooves worn into the sidewalk at the corner of Broadway Avenue and Keap in South Williamsburg: Carlos, an early morning tamale vendor, has been at this same spot almost every Saturday and Sunday for the past 18 years. He pulls up on his bicycle, which is outfitted with a rolling ... More >>

  • News

    October 16, 2013
  • Blogs

    October 16, 2013

    A Convincing Argument for NYC Mexican Food at Reyes Deli & Grocery

    When the New York Times released its taco issue two weeks ago, Ligaya Mishan's Hungry City column, which praised a handful of our city's finer offerings, was simultaneously heralded for highlighting the goods and scoffed at for neglecting dozens of deserving places among the Mexican cuisine cognosce ... More >>

  • Music

    October 16, 2013
  • Blogs

    October 9, 2013

    Cerveceria Havemeyer Represents the Middle of This City's Polarized Mexican Offerings

    In our frenetic metropolis, the taco evolves at the far ends of a dialectic, either highbrow with pinkies raised or street-level sloppy. But between the white tablecloths and the back-door bodegas is Felipe Mendez's Brooklyn-based empire--the perennially popular La Superior; the chandelier-studded b ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 4, 2013

    5 Spots for Great Tacos on National Taco Day

    In case you missed it, LA and its surroundings got their undies in a bunch this week after the New York Times published a Hungry City column declaring that NYC could go "mano a mano" with the City of Angels when it comes to tacos.

  • Blogs

    October 3, 2013

    Tacos El Vagabondo, a Roving Taco Truck Where Everyone Knows Your Name

    Though it's a roving taco truck, Tacos El Vagabundo's (Queens Plaza at 40th-41st Street, Sunnyside, 347-276-4522) presence in Sunnyside, Queens is abiding. Every night of the week "The Vagabond" parks on Queens Plaza between 40th and 41st Streets, operating as a nighttime rapid-fire hot-line of burr ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 25, 2013

    House Mole a Standout at Aqui En Bella Puebla Inc.

    "La mejor de Mexico esta en Puebla"--which roughly translates to "the best part of Mexico is Puebla"--reads the menu of Aqui En Bella Puebla Inc. The board is lengthy: dozens of antojitos, a long list of protein fillings for your tortas and tacos, six kinds of soup, a steam table with more options, ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 11, 2013

    In Chelsea Market, Look for the Tacos at Los Tacos No. 1

    The fast-food Mexican format that offers quick mindfully-assembled tacos, tortas, and burritos is so popular in the western end of our country, but it has yet to take hold this far east. Unlike big-branch conglomerates serving slop, these types of restaurants serve streamlined Mexican fare, and the ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 22, 2013

    Santa Ana Deli Looks Like a Bodega but Sells Killer Quesadillas

    Amid Ecuadorian restaurants and laundromats that dot Stockholm Street and Irving Avenue, a Bushwick thoroughfare that has recently seen an uptick in new spots like Fritzl's Lunch Box and Verde Coal Oven Pizza, sits the Santa Ana Deli. Colorful blankets adorn the walls of this corner joint, and they ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 8, 2013

    Had the Burger at Rippers? Now Try the Torta

    For the this week's Village Voice, I checked out Rippers, a credible burger shack at Rockaway Beach that has been feeding sand encrusted beach-goers with well-made fast food for the past two summers.

  • Blogs

    July 24, 2013

    Try the Flan at Panaderia La Espiga Real

    A bad flan is very bad thing. Corn syrup-based sauces, curdled eggs, and imitation vanilla are enough to turn a first-time flan eater into a life-long custard hater. But a good flan, the silken alchemy of eggs, milk, and sugar, gently set into a sweet, wobbling cylinder, is a pure delight. And an e ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 5, 2013

    Best Spots for Oysters and Best Beers for the Holiday: What to Read This Weekend

    Hopefully, you're mid-four-day weekend by now, nursing the wounds from an Independence Day blow-out with a greasy breakfast and a strong bloody mary. As you fuel up to continue the merriness--perhaps with one of our five best Fourth of July weekend events happening over the next couple of days--sett ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 21, 2013

    Ippudo, Pop-ups, and Marion Nestle: What to Read This Weekend

    Headed to the LIC Flea & Food this weekend? Bradley Hawks just penned a round-up of 10 great dishes he found at the event last weekend, and it's good guidance for tackling the dozens of vendors. But first, pour yourself a cup of weekend coffee and read up on our top stories of the week.

  • Blogs

    June 12, 2013

    Tacos Cachanilla Serves Up Chicharron Preparado

    Chicharron preparado, a popular Mexican snack, has many guises. All start with a crispy chip of chicharron (fried pork skin), which serves as a blank canvas for various toppings and ingredients, an edible platform that highlights the cook's artistic strokes and sprinklings. Some chicharrones prepara ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 7, 2013

    Pancakes and an Ancient Grass Diet in Stories Worth Reading This Weekend

    More good news for coffee-drinkers in this weekend's New York Times Magazine: Scientists find evidence that coffee intake is linked to longevity. So put on a pot and dig in with good food-related reads you might have missed this week.

  • Blogs

    June 5, 2013

    El Atoradera and Mulberry Project in This Week's Village Voice

    It's early Saturday evening, day leaning into dusk. The barbershops and nail salons are full; patrons spill out onto the street drinking from plastic cups and preparing for whatever the night may bring. Mott Haven residents making the rounds always end up at El Atoradera, a well-stocked bodega by we ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 13, 2013

    Pigging Out at Fonda's Feast of Cochinita Pibil

    It took full, active engagement of the servers' biceps to lower the cochinita pibil onto the table. The pibil, an entire pork shoulder slow-roasted and burnished with achiote, the caramelized crust glistening with its own juices, was a hefty platter. The commanding centerpiece is now being offered ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 29, 2013

    A Closer Look at Tres Carnes' Texas-Style BBQ

    Brisket taco drenched with toppings Many people have been comparing the Flatiron's new Tres Carnes to the fast-casual model of Chipotle, with its assembly-line and infinitely customizable tacos and burritos. But a more astute comparison lies eight blocks South, at Dos Toros, which has brought in Me ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 22, 2013

    That Ain't Coconut Water, It's Pulque

    Among the cans of Sprite and bottles of Jarritos at Mexican bodegas, restaurants, and grocery-with-a-taqueria-in-back hybrids throughout the city, there may be the occasional can of pulque ($2-$2.50) on the shelf, an alcoholic beverage made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant. Without fizz bu ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 2, 2013

    Tasting Mexico's Obscure Chicken-Filtered Mezcal

    Recently, tequila has been sharing shelf space with more interesting agave-based alcohols. At bars around the city, artisanal mezcals, bacanora, and pulque are catching the eye of those serious drinkers on the lookout for a novel taste. But pechuga, a style of mezcal from Oaxaca, is by far the most ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 20, 2013

    The Wonderful World of Offal at El Tenampa

    Out on 21st Street in Brooklyn, in the neighborhood that real-estate agents like to call the South Slope but is really Greenwood Heights, is El Tenampa, a large Mexican grocery store with a restaurant in the back. It's a fluorescently lit boxy space where the tortillas are appropriately pliable with ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 5, 2013

    Tortas Miss the Mark at April Bloomfield's Salvation Taco

    The press has been fawning over Salvation Taco, April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman's Mexican-inspired bar in Murray Hill, ever since it opened two months ago, and for good reason--the Bloomfield-ian touches, like lamb on naan, pineapple and pork belly salads, and deep fried pigs ears, a panoply of cr ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 22, 2012

    Beigel's Knows What Your Nose Likes

    If you ever meandered up Vanderbilt Avenue in search of the Brooklyn Flea, perhaps you've caught a whiff of a toasty, sweet fragrance that's strong enough to dismantle a conversation and prompt pedestrians to stop and wildly sniff the air. "What's that smell?! Baking pastries? Toasted bread?" It's s ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 4, 2012

    Humongous New Chile Relleno Taco Placeros Sighted in Sunset Park

    How lush was my taco? At the invitation of Serious Eats Mexican-food expert Scarlett Lindeman, I visited a newish taqueria in Sunset Park in the shadow of the looming Our Lady of Perpetual Help, Brooklyn's largest Roman Catholic cathedral. The place is called Tacos Cachanilla, and one of the lures ... More >>