Taylor Mac returns as Shen Tei
Today is, apparently, national hot and spicy food day, and you're not properly celebrating if your meal isn't making you feel like you're about to spontaneously combust. Where, you ask, should you go in this city for volcanic heat?
This do-it-yourself cold rice noodle dish from Ayada provides you with pickled mustard greens, sprouts, fried pig skin, dried chiles, and an incendiary soup for pouring and dipping. It's great, but will it be great enough to catapult the restaurant into our top 10 for the neighborhood? As one of f ... More >>
Even noodles get the blues
For our own Robert Sietsema, hearing the name Sweet Yummy House "conjured up gingerbread dwellings deep in the woods made by witches." In reality, the Elmhurst restaurant is one of the city's newest Sichuan restaurants, specializing in "delicious peculiarities resulting from fusion with other cuisin ... More >>
Taylor Mac livens up Brecht
It doesn't look that spicy, does it? This potage is also Dish #20 in our countdown. Welcome to 100 Dishes to Eat Now, the tasty countdown leading up to our "Best of 2012" issue. Tune in each day (weekends too!) for a new dish from the Fork in the Road team. I've eaten a lot of very spicy food. Las ... More >>
[See More Year of the Takeout: Day 209: Village 38 | Day 208: Szechuan Garden] Quite unfortunately, we made the mistake of eating at a highly hyped, highly recommended Asian "street food" restaurant yesterday and found that it was a lot like many highly hyped, highly recommended restaurants -- meh ... More >>
Wood Ear(!) from Hou Yi (112 Eldridge Street, 212-625-8989)
The magnificent "big tray chicken" -- same as it ever was. It was in early June that a group of friends and I staged a wake for He Nan Flavor, a modest noodle-centric restaurant on the Lower East side that provided Manhattan's only glimpse of food from Henan - a landlocked region wedged between Sh ... More >>
Potato balls, we mean. At a new Lower East Side Dai spot.
5. Hiyashi Chuka at Rai Rai Ken -- This mix-it-yourself assemblage of cold ramen and other cooling ingredients is a summer godsend, with a little spicy brown mustard to perk it up. Find apples, egg, cucumber, seaweed, and red ginger in the mix. 214 East 10th Street, 212) 477-7030 So far, summer's ... More >>
Robert Sietsema shares with us a list for his five favorite breakfast tacos: "Sadly, breakfast tacos are few and far between in Gotham, and you have to behave like a ferret to find them." What's the story behind Sichuan mapo tofu? The dish features bean curd, ground meat, fermented bean paste, chi ... More >>
Sichuan-Style Bean Curd from Pearls Chinese Restaurant (796 Amsterdam Avenue, 212-749-0300)
Land of Plenty's picture-perfect ma po tofu, snowed with crushed Sichuan peppercorns. How did it happen that some of the city's best -- and most authentic -- Sichuan restaurants have come to be located on the Upper East Side? Maybe for the same reason so many young bohos are moving into the neighb ... More >>
An Irish slur or actual school of yoga? One night a few weeks ago, I had a vague report that the Grand Sichuan at Ninth and 24th in Chelsea - at one time the flagship of the fleet - had been closed, only to be replaced by a new one on Eighth Avenue and 18th Street. The rumor turned out to b ... More >>
Get yourself a bowl of burn
We ride down into a massive new food court
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema gets a spicy surprise, namely "reconfigured Sichuan fare," at Tibetan café Phayul; Lauren Shockey discovers "totally passé eats" at The Astor Room. Sam Sifton approves of Empellón: "one of the more captivating restaurants to open in recent months, w ... More >>
Cubed soft tofu bathed in green sauce -- what could be more elemental? Who doesn't like tofu? Vegans love it. Carnivores love it. The creaminess is incomparable, and it serves as a splendid earth-friendly source of protein, too.
In A-Wah's Hong Kong-style wonton lo mein, the noodles are cooked al dente, and the broth is served on the side. The amazing thing about Manhattan's Chinatown, no matter how it ebbs and flows, no matter how many restaurants come and go: It's always been a bastion of excellent cheap eats. Th ... More >>
This obscure restaurant near the corner of 16th Street and Seventh Avenue -- which advertises a combination of Sichuan and Vietnamese food -- was declared one of the best Chinese restaurants in the country in the inscrutable "Top Chefs & Owners" category. This past Sunday, correspondent Bil ... More >>
Peter Meehan on why he's really into Chinatown these days: Sichuan hot pot in a bag, tofu, and barbecued parts. [T Magazine] Royal Caribbean cruise line's newest ship, the 5,400-passenger Allure of the Seas, will house the first Starbucks outlet at sea. [USA Today] A recent survey reveals t ... More >>
Robert Sietsema, Sarah DeGregorio, and Rebecca Marx recap their respective years in food
Foodparc is not quite as big and grandiose as it looks from the outside. If this era coming up has a theme, it might be the Era of Food Courts. They seem to be popping up everywhere.
The "néo-bistrot," a new kind of restaurant that serves good, simple French fare at reasonable prices, could save French gastronomy in an era when upscale restaurants in the country are lagging. [Wall Street Journal] Amid an immigration debate, a popular Chinese restaurant in Berlin is pus ... More >>
Wait! Isn't espresso supposed to be the opposite of instant coffee?
Firm noodles, "light" pork fatNew ramen joint Hide-Chan perches on the same second-floor space that Yakitori Torys occupied until recently, and is owned by the same restaurant group. Like Ippudo, it specializes in Hakata-style tonkotsu, the rich broth made from long-simmered pork bones, and s ... More >>
The incendiary, mouth-searing, mind-bogglingly-hot pepper shrimp at Maima's. It always happens. No sooner had I assembled a collection of the hottest dishes available in city restaurants for the Spring Supplement, than I stumbled on another that put the others to shame.
Tomorrow is the fourth day of Passover as well as Good Friday, when some Catholics eschew meat. So in the spirit of togetherness, we'll bring you a top ten list that both groups can enjoy--fin fish. That's fish with scales and fins--no shellfish or cephalopods. Check back here tomorrow for ... More >>
Don't fear the chiles! No matter how good the cold tripe and tongue in hot sauce, or the lotus root, or the spicy braised fish, whenever we go to a Sichuanese restaurant, we can't quite resist the siren call of the Chongqing chicken. Fuchsia Dunlop writes that the dish is from Geleshan, a tow ... More >>
In the summer, sometimes all you want is a taco from a cart, a tomato salad, or a cold beer and sausage, eaten outside at the Bohemian Beer Garden. But winter calls for more substantial fare--bread dumplings that will insulate your ribs like a puffy ski jacket, pizza crackling hot from a woo ... More >>
Baohaus opened on Rivington Street on Christmas EveOn Christmas Eve, Rivington Street became home to Baohaus, a subterranean shop peddling Taiwanese gua bao, or steamed buns. Located in a storefront between Norfolk and Suffolk Streets that was formerly occupied by the Naked Earth Cafe, Baohau ... More >>
Hello, and welcome to Friday afternoon. Here are our favorite posts from the week that was. We tried our hand at making our own Scotch, alongside folks from Angel's Share and Apotheke We were inducted into the Secret Sherry Society at wd-50 We sampled New York's first Korean tacos at Seoul Stati ... More >>
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers unreconstructed Sichuan fare at Bensonhurst's Bamboo Pavilion, while Sarah DiGregorio visits the oddly addictive Wechsler's Currywurst & Bratwurst. Bruni drops in on Co., awarding it one star for its "fluffy, crunchy, supple, dense" pizza crust, al ... More >>
Here are some of our favorite posts from the week that was. See you on Monday. Sietsema wisdom: Carbs are essential to life and happiness The Early Word on Sunset Park's Casa Vieja In Chile: poutine's fatter, sluttier cousin Gobbling sausage, drinking Pinot Noir and snuggling at Cafe Select Awe ... More >>
Demonstrating the facility of Sichuan cooks with vegetables, and their amazing ability to treat them in ways Westerners would never have imagined, we have the modestly named "sliced pumpkin with peppers" at Bamboo Pavilion. The orange vegetable, more like a calabaza than a jack-o-lantern, is shredde ... More >>
Downtown Flushing's BLT, a palace of cheap eats Like spaceships arriving from another galaxy, cheap eats palaces are setting down in downtown Flushing, among the unreconstructed Chinese and Korean stalls and restaurants. These places took their cue from the Fujianese cheap-food joints of Manhattan ... More >>
Grand Sichuan St. Mark's Chong Qing ChickenWhen Sietsema's review of Grand Sichuan House (8701 Fifth Avenue, Bay Ridge, Brooklyn) ran accompanied by a gorgeous shot of what looks like a plate mounded with dried red chiles and nothing else, I ran right down to Bay Ridge to try the dish. The preparati ... More >>
My favorite food book of the year was Fuchsia Dunlop's Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China. In it, she tells the amazing story of an Englishwoman going to cooking school in Chengu, and we sit on the bike with her as she peddles through the Sichuan capital ... More >>
New Flushing malls offer regional Chinese specialties
Our man Sietsema and the Night Tripper duke it out at Brooklyn Sichuan
Food court revels in a variety of regional Chinese styles