Steve Cuozzo

  • Blogs

    January 30, 2013

    A Look at New 'Cue around NYC; Pigs Ears Amidst Chaos at Salvation Taco

    Our own Robert Sietsema surveys the latest barbecue offerings from "the East Village to Gowanus," and finds worthwhile rib-stickers throughout the boroughs. His saucy list of favorites includes Daniel Delany's BrisketTown, "which obsesses on beef brisket smoked in a trailer located just off Flushing ... More >>

  • Blogs

    January 3, 2013

    Carry a Big Steak at Midtown's Bill's Food and Drink; Wave Goodbye to Lesbians and Hello to Pork at the West Village's Swine

    Our own Tejal Rao reviews Bill's Food and Drink, a "flashy John DeLucie joint." Bill's Food and Drink is the recently revamped former speakeasy that once held Bill's Gay Nineties. The Midtown restaurant is "cluttered with maps, Victorian portraits, and taxidermied animal heads... it can feel like th ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 27, 2012

    London Calling Brooklyn at Dear Bushwick; Chinese by Way of Peru at Chifa

    This week, Tejal Rao checks in at a "spot of warmth" on the otherwise gloomy Wilson Avenue, Dear Bushwick. Having previously honed her skills at Goat Town, chef Jessica Wilson offers "English-inspired dishes with American ingredients" and assures us that "this is the sort of simple, seasonal food th ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 28, 2012

    Tejal Rao at Pig and Khao; Robert Sietsema at Chote Nawab

    Our own Tejal Rao visits former Top Chef contestant Leah Cohen's Lower East Side South Asian restaurant, Pig and Khao, and finds the outcome boisterous and inconsistent. While Cohen's ability to cook is evident in the noodle curry khao soi which is "full of quality crunch and chew," the crispy pata ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 8, 2012

    Tejal Rao at Back Forty West, Robert Sietsema at Mataheko

    This past week has been an important one for the food industry. As we work to rebuild Sandy's lingering devastation, many restaurants have worked tirelessly to save their establishments as well as organize food drives and drop-offs to those who need it most. Those who eat professionally seem to be ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 18, 2012

    Robert Sietsema at Chao Thai Too; Tejal Rao at Sel et Gras

    Robert Sietsema is at Chao Thai Too, maybe one of the best Thai places in the city. He notes that they serve blood Jell-O "interspersed with pork meatballs, and crispy stir-fried frog legs flavored with basil (pad kra prao kob). Gnaw on these, and you might never go back to chicken wings." Tejal R ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 12, 2012

    Robert Sietsema at Potlikker; Tejal Rao at Jezebel

    Robert Sietsema says that the food at Potlikker has an improvised quality and that the dishes come out a bit inconsistent: "My biggest complaint is that there's no actual potlikker on the menu, as the name of the place promises. Swabbed with a savory version of the Dutch pancake, and sided with plen ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 25, 2012

    Robert Sietsema at Little Pepper; Tejal Rao at La Vara

    See what NYC's restaurant critics have been up to this week: Robert Sietsema tries the Sichuan fare at Little Pepper: "The tiny chunks of light and dark meat lurk among bales of toasted red chiles, and for once, the peppers seem to have conferred their hotness on the poultry. Raw sesame seeds scat ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 11, 2012

    Tejal Rao at Perla; One Star for La Silhouette

    See what NYC's restaurant critics have been up to this week: Tejal Rao makes her inaugural review in this week's Voice with a write-up of rustic Italian Perla on Minetta Lane: "Perla's long menu is divided traditionally--antipasti, primi, secondi, contorni--and if you're wearing your eatin' pants, ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 21, 2012

    Robert Sietsema at Kaia; North End Grill Face-Off

    See what NYC's restaurant critics have been up to this week: In this week's Voice, Robert Sietsema checks out the city's newest South African spot and finds a grab bag of cuisines served there. Adam Platt bestows one measly star on North End Grill: "These dishes are professionally prepared, for ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 21, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Gregory's 26 Corner Taverna; Lauren Shockey at Onegin

    Wish for fish. ​This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema explores Astoria's Attic at Gregory's 26 Corner Taverna. He finds that it is charming and fishy: "Gregory's 26 Corner Taverna has a few chairs out front under an awning where, even in cold weather, patrons sit sipping ouzo and smoking cig ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 9, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at La Mar; Lauren Shockey at RedFarm

    Raw power?​This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema relishes the raw selections at La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, but can't fully stomach the eatery's carbophobic causas.  Lauren Shockey plays with her food at RedFarm, which boasts Pac Man-like shrimp dumplings along with other unique apps.Eric As ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 19, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at He Nan Flavor; Lauren Shockey at Beecher's Handmade Cheese

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers authentic Henan on the Lower East Side at He Nan Flavor. Lauren Shockey sips a Grilled Cheese Martini at Beecher's Handmade Cheese.Liz BarclayCurd-ish pleasures at Beecher's​ Adam Platt isn't exactly charmed by the new West Village Fatty 'Cue ( ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 21, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Taiwanese Specialties; Lauren Shockey at Forcella

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples fly heads and chicken neck at Taiwainese Specialties; Lauren Shockey indulges in the deep-fried pies at Forcella.Liz BarclayTaiwanese Specialties​ Sam Sifton praises St. Anselm for the "pulsing bass line of ambition beneath its simple steakhouse ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 14, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Birreria; Lauren Shockey at Left Bank

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema ascends to the summit of Eataly, to Birreria, where "the food is superb." Lauren Shockey is not so impressed by Left Bank: "Although the food and exceptionally friendly service more than pass muster, the culinary creativity is, well, lacking." Sam Sifton, in ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 17, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at St. Anselm

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds mostly hits and a few misses at the recently reopened St. Anselm: "The appetizers were terrif... Which is not to say a steady hand always rested on the tiller of the restaurant." Sam Sifton approves of Danji: "Hooni Kim, who opened this place in Decembe ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 3, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Boulud Sud; Lauren Shockey at Hospoda

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema is impressed by Boulud Sud: "Despite a few missteps, this is summer cooking par excellence, and the lightness of the food combined with the smallness of the portions means you won't drift away bloated into the sultry summer evening." Lauren Shockey falls for H ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 27, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Bhim's Café and Lali Guras; Lauren Shockey at Sa Aming Nayon

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema treks out to Queens' Little Himalayas for momos and other Nepalese stables at Bhim's Café and Lali Guras. Lauren Shockey welcomes Filipino food back to the East Village at Sa Aming Nayon.​ Sam Sifton awards a star each to Palm and Palm Too: "Palm is fo ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 20, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at The Trilby

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds "unexpectedly grand" food at The Trilby, the latest incarnation of The Cooper Square Hotel's restaurant. Steve Cuozzo finds hits and misses at Boulud Sud: "Its creations vary in finesse, as they do in origin. 'Sud?' my Paris-born friend sniffed of the w ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 15, 2011

    Lauren Shockey Likes It Hot at Zabb Elee; Sifton Takes Masa Down a Peg

    This week in the Voice, Lauren Shockey orders her food "Thai hot" at the East Village offshoot of Queens restaurant Zabb Elee and is delighted to find a menu that "traverses a maze of sour, tangy, and piquant flavors, each brighter than the next." Sam Sifton shocks the New York restaurant scene by ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 18, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Man'ouChe; Lauren Shockey at Spasso

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers "the city's most intimate look at today's Lebanese vernacular cuisine" at Man'ouChe; Lauren Shockey finds hits and misses at Spasso.​ Sam Sifton revisits Gotham Bar and Grill, allowing it to retain its three stars: "A meal at Gotham is about y ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 4, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Papaye, Uptown African Restaurant and Accra; Lauren Shockey at Tenpenny

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema goes West African at Papaye, Uptown African Restaurant, and Accra. Lauren Shockey finds fun and value in Midtown at Tenpenny.​ Sam Sifton discovers the reason Brooklyn Heightians are staying close to home these days, awarding Colonie one star: "Long and ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 27, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Hofbräu Bierhaus; Lauren Shockey at La Silhouette

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds Munich in Midtown at Hofbräu Bierhaus; Lauren Shockey is charmed by old-fashioned La Silhouette. Sam Sifton awards three stars to the Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare, raving, "What [César] Ramirez is doing at the Chef's Table is entirely his own p ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 6, 2011

    Robert Sietsema, Illustrated, at V-Nam Café; Lauren Shockey at Saro Bistro

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema visits V-Nam Café... as a cartoon! Lauren Shockey is underwhelmed by Balkan cuisine at Saro Bistro. Sam Sifton raves over M. Wells: "Those who recall the thrill of eating at the Momofuku restaurants for the first time would do well to book passage on the No. ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 18, 2011

    Open & Closed: Say Hello to Empellón; Goodbye to Dinner at Insieme

    Restaurants and bars, they come and they go. Here are a few making their debuts and bowing out this week. Angelo & Maxie on Park Avenue South and its sister restaurant Maxie's Grill appear to be closing. According to Steve Cuozzo, the spaces will be on the market soon. [Eater] Insieme doesn't see ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 16, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Main Street Imperial Taiwanese Gourmet; Lauren Shockey at the John Dory Oyster Bar

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema delves into authentic Taiwanese at Main Street Imperial Taiwanese Gourmet, while Lauren Shockey finds a few things fishy at the John Dory Oyster Bar.​ Sam Sifton lets Veritas keep its three stars, pronouncing it "now worth visiting again. ... [Chef Sam ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 10, 2011

    Asiadog Coming to Kenmare Street, Wilfie & Nell Team to the Bowery

    mightysweet.comAn Asiadog dog.​CB2 had its SLA licensing meeting last night, and the agenda contained a few notable developments.

  • Blogs

    March 7, 2011

    Hard-Nosed Chefs Say The Customer Can Be Wrong; David Chang Heads to Canada

    ​The customer is not always right at restaurants like Zucco: Le French Diner, Spotted Pig, and Momofuku, where the house insists its food is served a certain way, no substitutions or alterations allowed. [NY Times] A new bill in California would ban the sale and possession of shark fins, incl ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 2, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Fedora; Lauren Shockey at Graffit

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema gorges himself on Quebecois-accented food at Fedora in "Little Wisco"; Lauren Shockey experiments with Graffit: "While not everything is a smash success, the food is playful and visually compelling."​ Sam Sifton is unimpressed with Fishtag, deeming it " ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 23, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Dai Wah Yummy City; Lauren Shockey at Breuckelen

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema heads to Bensonhurst's Dai Wah Yummy City: "The menu features exactly what the adults crave: Cantonese food with Hong Kong flourishes, plus dishes from other regions of China that have been popularized and added to the southern Chinese canon." Lauren Shockey i ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 16, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Red Rooster; Lauren Shockey at Edi & The Wolf

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema enjoys the "wacky fusion" of East African, Scandinavian, and North American at Red Rooster; Lauren Shockey gets her schnitzel on at Edi & The Wolf. Sam Sifton echoes what pretty much every critic has to say about Bar Basque: "there is much to enjoy about eati ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 9, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Andre's Café; Lauren Shockey at Mary Queen of Scots

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers authentic Hungarian comfort food on the Upper East Side; Lauren Shockey is bored by oodles of tartan and whiskey at Mary Queen of Scots. San Sifton is charmed by Hunan Kitchen of Grand Sichuan: "Those who recall when Chinese food first began to matt ... More >>

  • Blogs

    January 12, 2011

    Robert Sietsema at Caliu; Lauren Shockey at FishTag

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema checks out the latest addition to New York's tapashere: Caliu. Lauren Shockey gets past the unfortunate name of Michael Psilakis's new restaurant, FishTag, and proceeds to have a nice meal. Sam Sifton awards two stars to Ciano, citing, "[Shea] Gallante's food ... More >>

  • Blogs

    January 12, 2011

    In The Great Brooklyn Dining Debate, Steve Cuozzo Responds to Robert Sietsema, Then Carla Spartos Responds to Cuozz

    Frank WintersThe bridge that divides us.​The Brooklyn dining debate fueled by Mimi Sheraton's curmudgeonly rant against the borough rages on. The Post's Steve Cuozzo and Carla Spartos go head-to-head in defense of Sheraton and Brooklyn, respectively. Here's the breakdown: Cuozzo stands by his ... More >>

  • Blogs

    January 4, 2011

    Mimi Sheraton Isn't Buying This Brooklyn Thing

    Mimi Sheraton​Newsflash: Well-appointed, Old Establishment Manhattan food writers have an aversion to outer-borough dining.

  • Blogs

    December 22, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at Polonica; Lauren Shockey at Osteria Morini

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema gets drunk on gravy at Polonica; Lauren Shockey manages to not turn into a fat tortellini at Osteria Morini. Sam Sifton approves of Anella: "the food is a wonder: a tight and focused menu of simple, seasonally appropriate food from Joseph Ogrodnek, a talented ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 22, 2010

    Steve Cuozzo Bestows Year-End Rant Upon the General Public, Williamsburg

    ​The relentless barrage of year-end lists means that their contents tend to get lost in a shiny, amorphous tangle, so we're grateful for Steve Cuozzo's annual dining-related invective, deposited amongst the tinsel like a fat lump of coal. The Post critic's take on 2010 is more or less as withe ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 8, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at Harold Dieterle's Kin Shop

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema approves of Kin Shop: "When [Harold Dieterle] debuted Perilla in 2007, it wasn't a marquee assignment, but a small West Village bistro that gradually attracted a fervent following. Now, after a measured period of time, he's opened a second place a few blocks d ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 27, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at Sohna Punjab Indian Restaurant & Bar; Sarah DiGregorio at Peels

    This week, in the Voice, Robert Sietsema enjoys top-notch versions of all your Punjabi favorites at Sohna Punjab Indian Restaurant & Bar. Sarah DiGregorio samples the "gussied-up regional American food" at Peels. Sam Sifton finds that Lambs Club reminds him of "the now-shopworn if still-beautiful S ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 20, 2010

    Sam Sifton Previews Eataly; Ryan Sutton Slams Del Posto

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema, Sarah DiGregorio, and Rebecca Marx reveal their top picks for eats and treats in the city. Elsewhere... Sam Sifton offers an early look at Eataly: "It's groceries. To be fair, though: those groceries are pretty good... Il Pesce is worth visiting... There is ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 19, 2010

    Like Tabla, Le Cirque Is Also Having Size Issues

    Le Cirque​Are the days of restaurant bloat numbered? A day after Floyd Cardoz said that Tabla's large size was more or less the reason for the restaurant's closure, Sirio Maccioni has offered the Post more proof that bigger is not always better.

  • Blogs

    October 6, 2010

    Sun Chips Lose the Noisy Green Bag; Brooklyn Makes Out in 2011 Zagat Guide

    ​Sun Chip lovers who bemoaned the new biodegradable packaging for being too loud can rejoice. Frito-Lay is pulling most of the green packaging in response to the outcry. Only Sun Chips' original flavor will keep the compostable bags, while other flavors go back to conventional packaging. [Wall ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 16, 2010

    Robert Sietsema at Halikarnas and Marmaris; Sarah DiGregorio at 5 & Diamond

    This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema takes to Sheepshead Bay to visit Halikarnas and Marmaris, two competing Turkish seafood spots; while Sarah DiGregorio heads up to Harlem to see just how Twitter-happy chef Ryan Skeen is holding up at 5 & Diamond. Sam Sifton approves of Takashi: "a modest and ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 13, 2010

    Anita Lo Gets a Feng-Shui Boost at Annisa; Starbucks Launches Low-Cost Coffee Brand

    ​Steve Cuozzo takes aim at bad hotel restaurants, listing The Fives at Peninsula, Arabelle at Plaza-Athenee, and Commodore Grill at Grand Hyatt among the worst offenders. [NY Post] Despite being something of a "non-believer," Anita Lo hired a feng-shui consultant to help her redesign the inte ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 3, 2010

    Tavern on the Green Will Remain in the Dark

    Tavern: Lights still out.​Looks like the second coming of Tavern on the Green won't be coming anytime soon: according to the Post's Steve Cuozzo, a meeting last week between Dean Poll, Tavern's new operator, and Peter Ward, chief of Local 6 union, was not a fruitful one. Poll and Ward have bee ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 3, 2010

    Sietsema at Sapthagiri; DiGregorio at Torrisi Italian Specialties and Despana

    This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema samples an array of vegetarian southern Indian, including Jain and Swaminarayan food, at Sapthagiri in Jersey City. Sarah DiGregorio makes a couple of meals out of the Italian-American bites at Torrisi Italian Specialties and the Spanish tapas at Despana. Sa ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 30, 2009

    Teen Stars Break Up Over Eating Habits; Food Trucks Bring the South to Brooklyn

    ​Torrisi Italian Specialties opens today in Little Italy selling Italian foods made in America. Owners Richard Torrisi and Mario Carbone, both chefs, cure their own anchovies and olives, and will start offering prix-fixe dinners in February. [NY Times] Teen stars Taylor Swift and Taylor Lautn ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 16, 2009

    Under Review: Sietsema at The Vanderbilt; DiGregorio on a Citywide Martini Crawl

    This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema is Brooklyn-bound for The Vanderbilt, where "partners Saul Bolton and Ben Daitz pride themselves on their homemade sausages"; while Sarah DiGregorio bellies up to a couple different bars in search of the perfect martini. Sam Sifton offers up a two-fer this w ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 16, 2009

    The Meat Hook Arrives; Mommy Bloggers Shill for Big Food

    ​International aid agencies are saying that a United Nations summit on food security that kicked off in Rome today could be a "waste of time" as it won't commit donors to provide more money to end world hunger. [Bloomberg] Companies like Nestle and Frito Lay are offering "mommy bloggers" all- ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 4, 2009

    Under Review: Sietsema at Ambiance; DiGregorio at SD26

    This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema gets well fed at Ambiance in Carnasie, while Sarah DiGregorio tries to find warmth at SD26. Sam Sifton drops in on Le Relais de Venise l'Entrecote, where there is "no real menu to speak of. There is only salad and steak frites... And you know what? It's terr ... More >>

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