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A Catalog of Travertine's Dishes

Travertine looks like the sort of place that cares more about its DJ than its chef. The female servers have been made to dress like Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman. Unch-unch-unch booms the music. "May I say a few words about the menu," says the waiter, without really asking, and proceeds to up-sell with a passion. When the food arrives, he will say, "Madam will be enjoying the lamb." Oh, will madam?

Maybe it was the result of low expectations, but it turned out that the chef, Manuel Trevino, formerly of Babbo and Top Chef, is turning out some pretty good food. The Italian-New American dishes are not particularly inventive or memorable, but they're solid. Pastas, made in-house, are delicious

Pig's head terrineEXPAND
Pig's head terrine
Anil Mhatre

Pig's head terrine ($13) should offer a more generous portion of the terrine itself, but is rich and porcine, brightened with pickled onion and carrot.

Roasted bone marrow with gremolataEXPAND
Roasted bone marrow with gremolata
Anil Mhatre

Roasted bone marrow ($16) is as it should be, especially good squished onto toasts smeared with sweet, tar-like black garlic. But the kumquat-duck marmalade that comes alongside is overkill.

Beef carpaccioEXPAND
Beef carpaccio
Anil Mhatre

The beef carpaccio ($14) with beets and gorgonzola looks pretty but needs salt to taste like anything at all.

Click through to see the mains...

 

Lamb chops with pomegranate glaze and spaghetti squashEXPAND
Lamb chops with pomegranate glaze and spaghetti squash
Anil Mhatre

Lamb chops ($29) are well-seasoned and juicy, provoking a good gnaw on the bones. But spaghetti squash is never a very exciting vegetable.

Skate with parsnip puree and greensEXPAND
Skate with parsnip puree and greens
Anil Mhatre

Crisp-skinned skate ($26) tastes of browned butter, and pairs nicely with the creamy parsnips. Too bad there aren't more sustainable fish choices on the menu.

Orecchiette with gulf shrimp, swiss chard, and bottargaEXPAND
Orecchiette with gulf shrimp, swiss chard, and bottarga
Anil Mhatre

These "little ears" have that fresh chew that makes homemade pasta so tasty. It's topped with grapefruit and fried shallots, good textural choices.

Baba au rhumEXPAND
Baba au rhum
Anil Mhatre

This rum-soaked pastry ($9) filled with caramelized pineapple is absolutely delicious. Lime granita is on the side.

Travertine 19 Kenmare Street 212-966-1810


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