Apple Soup Takes Wing

Several rosy-cheeked, curly-headed cherubs suddenly find themselves sleepy and hungry. Their wings ache, and their music has slowed -- they've told their boss they need a break from the ever-intense routine of harp-song and meadow frolicking.

So he tells them to take an hour for lunch, and the cherubs -- who are so over cupcakes -- flutter to Yorkville, where they sell a splendid apple soup in several area delis. (It comes from nearby Likitsakos Market, 1174 Lexington Avenue.)

This offering tastes like something giggling, fairy-like creatures would sip while waiting in line for a maypole dance -- decadent and divine. As aromatic and dream-like as a bouquet of apple flowers, the fruit stew is calmed by yogurt, which gives the pureed item a smooth intensity.

Here, dairy -- and a splash of lemon juice -- balance sweet and sharp, much like bleu cheese crumbles in a pear or raspberry salad.

The sauce-like dish does not strike you as too candied or too sour. The $4.99-per-pint selection is damned ambrosial, perfect indeed for the ranks of Upper East Side cherubs and garden nymphs, maybe even sprites, too. For mere mortals, though, just know that it might be a bit honey-heavy.

Have a tip or restaurant-related news? Send it to fork@villagevoice.com.


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