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  • Article

    New Greenpoint Outpost of Southern Cooking

    Way off the tourist track, Vallo di Diano occupies the semiarid lower stretch of Italy's Campania. On a hillock in the center sits Teggiano, a town whose history harkens back to the Greeks. During the last century, hard-pressed paisanos emigrated fro...

    by Robert Sietsema on December 21, 1999
  • Article

    Bippity Boppity Belle

    Some restaurants beckon with bright lights and fancy facades. Others prominently post alluring menus. Still others entice with contented crowds glimpsed through plate glass. As someone who spent too much time next to the record player at teen parties...

    by Jessica Harris on December 14, 1999
  • Bunny Chow


    Bunny Chow

    Cobbled together of salvaged wood and Quonset-hut tin, it might be a grog shop in Soweto. There's a shelf crowded with handwoven baskets, a couple of ostrich eggs, and a row of kero- sene lanterns suspended near the ceilingas if the electricity migh...

    by Robert Sietsema on December 7, 1999
  • The Ins and Outs of Milk and Mold


    The Ins and Outs of Milk and Mold

    Where once coffee and cognac or a frothy pastry confection were the only postprandial options at Gotham's Gallic eateries, increasingly waiters are producing trays lined with grape leaves and filled with milk and mold. Where two decades ago we learne...

    by Jessica Harris on November 30, 1999
  • Article

    Shake Your Sumac

    Glowing like a saffron sun, chelo rice commands the center of the table. Served on a plate the size of a small yacht, each glistening grain tastesindividually buttered. At Patouga new branch of an Oakland Gardens, Queens, Persian favoritethe rice a...

    by Robert Sietsema on November 23, 1999
  • 'Cue the Kalbi


    'Cue the Kalbi

    New York is not a barbecue town. Yet while we don't do justice to the Southern classic, we do celebrate the commingling of meat and flame with increasingly international zeal. Savvy Gothamites know where to find jerk that could tempt Tosh and version...

    by Jessica Harris on November 16, 1999
  • Article

    Tastes Like Headcheese to Me

    Silky as a hundred-dollar blouse, ruddy as a stevedore's face in a high wind, the prosciutto di Parma ($9) swirls around the plate, mocking a pair of dumpy roast figs slouched like cartoon characters in the middle. You've never tasted ham this good, ...

    by Robert Sietsema on November 9, 1999
  • Dinner Theater


    Dinner Theater

    Just as sitting ringside or courtside has always been the dream of boxing buffs and hoop mavens, astute foodies also yearn to be near the center of things. This longing has spawned open-door policies and tables in busy restaurant kitchens where diner...

    by Jessica Harris on November 2, 1999
  • Article

    Georgia on My Mind

    Sure, most Brighton Beach restaurants serve up a handful of Georgian favorites like chicken tabaka and kidney-bean lobio. But since Cafe Pearl changed hands two years ago, we haven't had any full-bore Georgian places in town. Welcome Tblisi, named af...

    by Robert Sietsema on October 26, 1999
  • Baby Blue


    Baby Blue

    Jamaican restaurants in Brooklyn are as numerous as goats on the Trelawny roads, but when Leadfoot Louie, my trusted guide to island cuisine, arrived late one morning because he'd been painting his brother's new restaurant, I paid attention. Louie, a...

    by Jessica Harris on October 19, 1999
  • Article

    Noodle Diplomacy

    Koreatown is booming, with restaurants debuting all along 32nd and 35th streets. Many offer previously unobtainable specialties. Mandoo Bar (2 West 32nd Street, 279-3075) stuffs nine kinds of dumplings right in the front window. Ahp Ku Jung (10 West ...

    by Robert Sietsema on October 12, 1999
  • Article

    Comidas con Fusin

    When I moved to the Village in the '70s, Asia de Cuba was a joint on Eighth Avenue where impecunious artsy types hunkered down at a luncheonette counter to slurp up comidas chinas y criollas that were tasty lessons in food history. Combining soy and ...

    by Jessica Harris on October 5, 1999
  • Slow Boat to Monrovia


    Slow Boat to Monrovia

    When I exit the subway at my stop, Nostrand Avenue, the scene recalls great West African markets like Dakar's Sandaga or Abidjan's Treicheville: hair-braiding salons abound, tailor shops sprout like millet after the harmattan, and until the fall wea...

    by Jessica Harris on September 21, 1999
  • Article

    Frog in My Throat

    Clad in a checked gingham scarf and apron, the waitress trips across a rustic bridge to deliver the casserole, doffing the lid with a flourish to reveal a well-browned chicken-and-mushroom crust concealing a cheesy rice interior. But though it wouldn...

    by Robert Sietsema on September 14, 1999
  • Article

    Louie Louie la Franais

    I didn't head for the beach on my vacation. Instead I searched out used bookstores and homed in on the cookbook sections like a cockleshell-bedecked pilgrim sighting Compostela. On an inclement day, as rain pelted pleasantly overhead, I uncovered a...

    by Jessica Harris on September 7, 1999
  • Article

    Watering Hole

    Once it was a Chinese carryout. Now, teal blue tables, a powder blue drop ceiling, and plum banquettes--a color scheme that doesn't quite work, according to a decorator pal--replace flaming woks. Apart from a gilded screen shielding the restrooms, th...

    by Robert Sietsema on August 31, 1999
  • A Family Affair


    A Family Affair

    If you can't hop the Hampton Jitney or put the fire out on the eponymous island, you can still garner a bit of salt air and a hint of New England with a swipe of a MetroCard. On City Island, New York's in-town resort, the lobsters are steaming and th...

    by Jessica Harris on August 24, 1999
  • Monster Mash


    Monster Mash

    For the last decade Senegalese, Ghanaian, and Ivory Coast restaurants have held sway over the city's West African food. Now it's Nigeria's turn. While earlier establishments offered a handful of toned-down dishes, African Village Cafe mounts the most...

    by Robert Sietsema on August 17, 1999
  • Article

    Blue's Buppies

    My neighborhood's changingagain. Former bodegas offer designer coffees along with the de rigueur mangoes, real estate brokers patrol the streets, and there are now white folks at my bus stop. Increasingly, dinner no longer means BBQ shoved undernea...

    by Jessica Harris on August 10, 1999
  • Article

    Dairy State

    Most of us have zipped past the intersection of Canal and Broadway dozens of times without noticing a restaurant, but pause and gaze skyward toward the southeast and you'll see a pair of neon signs glowing "BAR." A forbidding wooden door provides ing...

    by Robert Sietsema on August 3, 1999
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