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  • Article

    Join Me in Eating Some Smut

    When a friend asked recently where she could find huitlacoche, I replied, just about anywhere there's a Mexican grocery. Huitlacoche (Ustilago maydisis, sometimes spelled "chuitlacoche") is a fungus something like a puffball - smudgy white on the ...

    @ Fork in the Road by Robert Sietsema on November 24, 2008 @ 3:00 pm
  • Article

    Greenmarket Thanksgiving Soup, Spiced Up

    Yuno's Farm is one of my favorite Union Square Greenmarket stalls. She always has beautiful vegetables, and many that are Japanese or Korean and impossible to find anywhere else. Recently, she had several kinds of radish, and this summer, purple long...

    @ Fork in the Road by Sarah DiGregorio on November 24, 2008 @ 11:37 am
  • Article

    NYC Wine Country: Drinking Manhattan Mead

    Honey and alcohol: two of our favorite things I jumped the gun a bit when I wrote about New York City's urban winemakers last April. (Ever Had a Nice Bottle of Greenpoint?) For one thing, when I interviewed Michael Dorf about City Winery, it was sl...

    @ Fork in the Road by Sarah DiGregorio on November 21, 2008 @ 10:06 am
  • Article

    Paneling

    A panel of experts convened at NYU's Fales Library late this afternoon to discuss "How Food and Food Writing Have Changed America." The moderator was restaurant consultant Clark Wolf, and the panel included (shown above from left to right) - Michae...

    @ Fork in the Road by Robert Sietsema on November 20, 2008 @ 6:26 pm
  • Article

    Incredibly Cheap Eats: Hua Ji Pork Chop

    Taiwanese fried pork chop with rice and pickled vegetables: $4 There is a new Taiwanese pork chop house in town, and it is both delicious and cheap. Wah Ji Pork Chop Fast Food is closet-sized, spotless and busy but orderly; the hiss of fat pork cho...

    @ Fork in the Road by Sarah DiGregorio on November 20, 2008 @ 1:13 pm
  • Article

    Think I'll Have Another Glass of Mexican Wine

    I'm a big fan of the band Fountains of Wayne. So big a fan, in fact, that I've made the pilgrimage to Wayne, New Jersey to see the original Fountains of Wayne -- a store that displays a bizarre collection of lawn ornaments beside U.S. Highway 46. O...

    @ Fork in the Road by Robert Sietsema on November 20, 2008 @ 9:09 am
  • Frank Bruni Shares His Darker Food Secrets in Born Round - A new memoir from the soon-to-be-former Times restaurant critic

    Article

    Frank Bruni Shares His Darker Food Secrets in Born Round - A new memoir from the soon-to-be-former Times restaurant critic

    It was a great surprise when, in 2004, The New York Times transferred Frank Bruni from his job as the paper's Rome bureau chief to the paper's restaurant critic. The journalist had made a name for himself covering the 2000 campaign and, later, forei...

    by Sarah DiGregorio on August 11, 2009
  • A New Crop of Thais Pops Up in Woodside and Astoria

    Article

    A New Crop of Thais Pops Up in Woodside and Astoria

    Thai restaurants in Queens are legendary for food far more pungent, regional, and genuine than their tired, sugary, vegetable-carving counterparts in the other boroughs. Woodside's Sripraphai has become the most notorious Siamese dining destination ...

    by Robert Sietsema on August 11, 2009
  • Article

    Autumnal Soup from Cercle Rouge

    For this week's dining newsletter, writer Hailey Eber talked to chef Pierre Landet from Cercle Rouge. He shared the recipe for this soup, which is full of good things that are in season at the Greenmarket right now. And for once, this is a chef rec...

    @ Fork in the Road by Sarah DiGregorio on November 19, 2008 @ 3:27 pm
  • Article

    Late Season Tomato Confit

    Sniff! Sniff! The sad last tomatoes, mainly from south Jersey, are rolling into the farmers markets around town. Woody, bruised, low on flavor, and often as pale as if they'd been suffering from the flu, they are nonetheless your last chance to eat...

    @ Fork in the Road by Robert Sietsema on November 19, 2008 @ 12:14 pm
  • Article

    Fork in the Road Raises her Cholesterol at Char No. 4

    In this week's paper, I review Char No. 4, the temple to whiskey and homemade bacon on Smith Street in Brooklyn. Don't go unless you want to wear bacon perfume for the rest of the day--the whole place is filled with the aroma of pork belly being s...

    @ Fork in the Road by Sarah DiGregorio on November 19, 2008 @ 10:46 am
  • Article

    Our Man Sietsema Eats Filipino in Ravenswood

    Kare kare This week, Our Man Sietsema is at Philippu Lounge Y Restaurante, an oddly named Filipino spot in Ravenswood, Queens. Our Man breaks it down for us: This restaurant tones down the pungency and amps up the Spanish influences (the Philippin...

    @ Fork in the Road by Sarah DiGregorio on November 19, 2008 @ 10:45 am
  • Article

    Spam--Not Just for Hawaiians Anymore

    Ladies and Gentlemen, here's your regular spam (right) and your "hickory smoked" (left) This Sunday's New York Times business section featured a story about the resurgence of Spam. Although Hormel wouldn't cooperate with the article, workers at the...

    @ Fork in the Road by Sarah DiGregorio on November 18, 2008 @ 5:45 pm
  • Article

    Sichuan Sears Smith Street

    Misspelling "Szechuan," perhaps for the purpose of suggesting the bad old Szechuan restaurants of the Upper West Side in the 1970s, Szechuan Gourmet gets the pin yin spelling right a mere inch below on the front page of its carryout menu, proclaimi...

    @ Fork in the Road by Robert Sietsema on November 18, 2008 @ 10:09 am
  • Article

    The Early Word: Momofuku Milk Bar

    The problem with wearying of reading about every move David Chang makes is that, almost inevitably, his food is delicious. And it's delicious in ways that seem both simple and obvious (fish sauce, sugar, chiles, fried brussels sprouts, kimchi, butter...

    @ Fork in the Road by Sarah DiGregorio on November 17, 2008 @ 2:45 pm
  • Article

    The Early Word -- Salumeria Rosi

    Cesare Cassela's new green balls, shown in their carryout container New York's own Tuscan cowboy chef, Cesare Cassela, is in the process of opening his new cafe and pork store known as Salumeria Rosi on the Upper West Side, mercifully near the IRT ...

    @ Fork in the Road by Robert Sietsema on November 17, 2008 @ 9:12 am
  • Article

    Recipe Improv: John Fraser Thanksgiving Special

    Give this man some turkey skin Today, we're playing Recipe Improv with chef John Fraser of Dovetail (103 West 77th Street). Before opening Dovetail last December, Fraser worked stints at the French Laundry, at Taillevent in Paris, and Compass in Ne...

    @ Fork in the Road by Sarah DiGregorio on November 14, 2008 @ 11:28 am
  • Article

    Beer For Breakfast

    Good morning, sunshine If you need an excuse to drink beer for breakfast, help is here. This new porter from Heartland Brewery combines ale with an earthy, dark Columbian coffee from Oren's Daily Roast to create a beer that has two of our favorite...

    @ Fork in the Road by Sarah DiGregorio on November 14, 2008 @ 8:25 am
  • Article

    Whither Chelsea Market?

    The Chelsea Market Ensconced in the old Nabisco factory at the corner of 15th Street and Ninth Avenue, Chelsea Market opened 11 years ago with the intention of being a top retail market for a vast range of groceries, while also providing warehouse ...

    @ Fork in the Road by Robert Sietsema on November 13, 2008 @ 4:43 pm
  • Article

    Taste Test -- Burger Creations

    Forget the rather frou-frou name -- Burger Creations throws down its albeit tiny gauntlet to the esteemed burger chain Five Guys, which has been steamrollering around town lately, setting up branches in every available space. Burger Creations creat...

    @ Fork in the Road by Robert Sietsema on November 13, 2008 @ 8:50 am
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