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  • Inside the Volcano


    Inside the Volcano

    There's not much to be said about the decor at E & R. The boxy walls are smeared an industrial green that is interrupted by crazy red stencils of stars, flowers, and musical eighth notes. Next to a carry-out window, there's a calendar touting a butch...

    by Robert Sietsema on October 31, 2000
  • Original Sin


    Original Sin

    One of the few things that I remember from the mists of my primary education is the painful conjugating of the Latin verbs we droned aloud. I thought I'd long forgotten them all until I received a press kit and was amazed to find, as I glanced at the...

    by Jessica Harris on October 24, 2000
  • Article

    When Worlds Collide

    With the East Village rolling rapidly south and Chinatown plowing north, it was only a matter of time before they collided. The point of impact is Funky Broome. The waiters dress head-to-toe in black, and, contrary to what you'd expect in a Chinese r...

    by Robert Sietsema on October 17, 2000
  • Country Matters


    Country Matters

    Perhaps it's the increasingly balkanized workstations in which we labor. Perhaps it's the solitude of cursing the cursor for hours on end. Whatever the reason, more and more restaurants are reminding us of our need for friends and folk in our lives w...

    by Jessica Harris on October 10, 2000
  • Article

    Medieval Tribeca

    A couple of weeks in Umbria this summer left me desperate for the flavors of Central Italyfor pungent pork products like pancetta and guanciale, for fragrant and bizarrely cheap black truffles still moist from the earth, and for fresh arugula, brocc...

    by Robert Sietsema on October 3, 2000
  • Article

    All-American Meat to Beat

    I've had so many steak frites over the last few years that I'd forgotten the delirious hedonism of an American steak-house steakdense, chewy, and laden with forbidden fat. My favorite purveyors of animal protein had gone AWOL in the nouvelle cuisine...

    by Jessica Harris on September 19, 2000
  • Crocked



    Cafe Glechik goes out of its way to distinguish itself from the other Russian joints in Brighton Beach. There's no Casio, no attempt to lure you into a big splurge featuring bad caviar, free-flowing vodka, and endless courses of desiccated smoked fis...

    by Robert Sietsema on September 12, 2000
  • A Chain Grows in Brooklyn


    A Chain Grows in Brooklyn

    One of the potted evergreens is dead and the other moribund outside the newly opened eatery on the corner of New York Avenue and Atlantic, but that doesn't mean that there's nothing growing. A chain is forging its first link. Island Cuisine, a Jamaic...

    by Jessica Harris on September 5, 2000
  • Article

    Ketchup Versus Ketjap

    Named after a ninth-century pyramid encircled by seven stone terraces featuring bas reliefs of Buddha's life, Borobudur is a new restaurant on the ground floor of an East Village tenement. Despite the name, the food is Muslim halal, mainly from Java....

    by Robert Sietsema on August 29, 2000
  • Article

    Herbal Infusion

    It's clear that this is a special place from the moment you descend into the monastic dining room, where flickering lights, muted colors, and burnished woods create the jewel box in which chef Diane Forley displays her culinary treasures. What's that...

    by Jessica Harris on August 22, 2000
  • Organ Recital


    Organ Recital

    Perched on the lip of the BQE's subterranean maw and gloomed by the elevated Flushing line, Ihawan immodestly bills itself as the "Home of the Best Barbecue in Town." Maybe they don't realize Pearson's Texas Barbecue is only three blocks away, or may...

    by Robert Sietsema on August 15, 2000
  • Happy Talk


    Happy Talk

    Parisians have l'heure bleue, when caf sitters watch as twilight paints the city a silver-tinged cobalt. Provenals savor l'heure verte, when inveterate imbibers sit transfixed, dripping water into pastis and regretting the demise of absinthe. Madri...

    by Jessica Harris on August 8, 2000
  • Chicken Rehab


    Chicken Rehab

    Chinese American chef Anita Lo became a Downtown luminary four years ago at Mirezi, a stunning, short-lived Village restaurant featuring East-West fusion from an Asian perspective. I still dream about her sticky barbecued ribs burning with ginger, ta...

    by Robert Sietsema on August 1, 2000
  • Article

    Something for Everyone

    The people watching is prime at Morrell Wine Bar & Caf, right across the street from the front paw of Jeffrey Koons's puppy in Rockefeller Centerenough camera-laden, gingham-polyestered tourists gawking to ensure natives a sense of superiority, and...

    by Jessica Harris on July 25, 2000
  • Kasbah Rocks


    Kasbah Rocks

    If you only ordered zaalouk ($3.50), you'd be disappointed. Despite a promising undertaste of cumin, this soggy eggplant-and-tomato puree seems like baba ganoush's dull-witted cousin. Neither do the filo cigars impress, with their unseasoned ground m...

    by Robert Sietsema on July 18, 2000
  • To Everything There Is a Season


    To Everything There Is a Season

    We're not supposed to eat cherries in the snow or savor plum pudding in July. Each culture seems to have its own idea of what goes best on the plate each season. So even in a time when greenhouses and air transport make almost anything available at a...

    by Jessica Harris on July 11, 2000
  • Suicide Watch


    Suicide Watch

    With sharp exclamations of delight, a table of Japanese diners dip their long tongs in a bubbling "pre-appetizer" of cheese fondue. Perhaps they will chase it with a frise salad shot with bacon and crowned with a runny fried egg. Then on to a choice...

    by Robert Sietsema on July 4, 2000
  • Good and Plenty


    Good and Plenty

    Nowadays, mounds of food rise and fall on plates like graphs of the stock market. The affluent '80s gave us the two-beans-and-a-lettuce-leaf austerity of nouvelle cuisine. After we tired of our expensive enforced diet, pre-millennium madness saw plat...

    by Jessica Harris on June 27, 2000
  • Article

    Cheating Death

    I'm fond of consoling bereaved friends upon the death of a favorite restaurant by pontificating, "Somewhere, an even better place has opened up." On rare occasions, this assertion is tested immediately. Only nine months old, Okryukwan was New York's ...

    by Robert Sietsema on June 20, 2000
  • Last Supper With Mommy - Lifelong Partnership Dissolved


    Last Supper With Mommy - Lifelong Partnership Dissolved

    My mother died suddenly and unexpectedly last month. Although she was 87, her indomitable spirit and tireless energy made her seem eternal to me and to my friends. I hit the wall. The true north on my personal compass had failed. In the midst of the ...

    by Jessica Harris on June 13, 2000
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