Are Food Critics Worthless?
Gawker really hates people who care about food! First food threatened music and Hamilton Nolan slammed the whole food-is-the-new-rock thing (Nolan was more articulate about this on WNYC recently, go listen). Today, mayo-hater Drew Magary slams food critics for being elitist, out-of-touch jerks who make "ungodly sums of money," and don't even help people find good restaurants (I'll just point you toward Robert's awesome lamb roundup to counter that).
What Magary has to say is not particularly clever, and as a person who cares about all this stuff, I wish he'd taken the time to produce something more thoughtful. But, no matter.
Because here's something I don't see often: commenters who rushed to defend fine dining and food criticism. Sort of.
So lets just gnaw roots and wear animal pelts. Or maybe we can wear identical jumpsuits and chew protein pills. Life is better because of art and culture, nerd.
How about the fact that regular people *do* go to these restaurants, usually for special occasions, and a food critic can prevent them from wasting a hard-earned few hundred dollars on a shitty place?
Food critics basically write novelizations of amateur porn for food nerds, like me. Sometimes, it goes fantastically. Other times, it just isn't your thing. Sometimes, it just goes all wrong, even from the get go.
Yup, fair enough.
Get the Food & Drink Newsletter
Our weekly guide to New York dining includes food news and reviews, as well as dining events and interviews with chefs and restaurant owners.