Branded Saloon in Prospect Heights

Bourbon-glazed wings.
Bourbon-glazed wings.

Other than the wagon wheel hanging from the ceiling, a cow skull grinning from one wall, and a few other thematic touches, it's hard to see what's so country, or cowboy, or honky-tonk about Branded Saloon, the new bar and snack spot on Vanderbilt in Prospect Heights.

We had heard tell of pickled eggs and fried green tomato sandwiches, but instead the short menu offered hamburgers, fries, smoked trout, wings, and gazpacho. The drinks list is similarly bizarre, filled with things like strawberry margaritas. (A cowboy walks into a bar and orders gazpacho and a strawberry margarita ...)

A mint julep made with Maker's Mark was just fine. And although 10 wings took a full 45 minutes to make their way out of the kitchen -- on a slow night -- they are certainly tasty, in a bar-food way. You can get them in Buffalo, barbecue, or bourbon sauce. We particularly liked the sweet-and-sticky bourbon-glazed versions.

Branded Saloon 603 Vanderbilt Avenue, Brooklyn 718-484-8704

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