Crave Something Fecal-Sounding for Lunch? Dogshit Meat From Bowery Beef
What could it be? And are the bottles of Bosco somehow involved?
One of our favorite local places to grab a quick sandwich is Bowery Beef, a joint that seeks to replicate a certain kind of roast beef sandwich native to the northern suburbs of Boston.
It features a great wad of rare roast beef, newly sliced, on a Pam-sprayed and toasted bun. Lately, the monogram of the establishment has been annealed to the upper surface of the bun in a bit of gastronomic prestidigitation. For a while, the menu remained admirably simple, basically offering only the sandwich and barista-made coffee.
Slowly, extras have been creeping onto the menu. A baked potato appeared, a vegetarian version of the sandwich, and then some pastries. More recently, a new sandwich has joined the ranks, with the rather unlovely name of Dogshit Meat With Sauce.
We couldn't wait to find out what it was.
Pick it up with your hand inside a plastic bag: dogshit meat.
It turned out to be a bunless heap of roast beef, settling down on a piece of white sliced cheese. Over the top can be poured several sauces and onions, singly or in combination: the signature Massachusetts barbecue sauce, mayo, mustard, or white creamy horseradish.
Of course, the idea that you'd want to forgo the bun is the kind of culinary Satanism Dr. Atkins fomented, which is still with us. Its sad results have included no bread in restaurants, tiny servings of mashed potatoes, and a banishment of any sort of carbs from many menus. To see him with his fingers on the throat of Bowery Beef is a sad thing but, we've got to admit, name aside, the Dogshit Meat is pretty good on its own. Think of it as an appetizer.
Bowery Beef 308 Bowery 212-260-3300
Thanks to Christina Pettit for the tip.
Digging into Dogshit
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