Curry Point: Solid Pakistani Food in Sunnyside

Keema naan.
Keema naan.

A thread on Chowhound suggested that a newish Pakistani restaurant called Curry Point might be better than your average chicken tikka masala slinger. At lunch today, a handful of fellow eaters were checking out the menu, which offers the usual Northern Indian stuff, like saag paneer, "chicken curry," and channa masala, along with more exciting Pakistani-style dishes, like paaya (cow feet), beef nihari, four different biryanis, and many kabobs.

There are 10 kinds of flatbreads -- some as austere as whole-wheat roti, others stuffed with various ingredients, including one with "cocktail fruits pieces." That's a new one on me. The keema naan ($4, shown above) is a thick, chewy bread stuffed with the highly spiced ground meat mix known as keema. Bite in to find turmeric-stained, garlicky chicken mince with diced onions. It could be a meal in itself.

Chicken achari.
Chicken achari.

Chicken achari -- or pickle-style chicken -- is a popular dish in Pakistan, the meat stewed in a sauce of whole pickling spices, and yogurt or lemon juice (or both) for tartness. This fresh-tasting, zippy rendition ($8) is shot through with cumin, fennel, ginger, and cardamom, plus a bare sprinkle of fenugreek leaves. Cooked with sweet green and hot red peppers, it's a lively, tasty dish -- if only the chicken were not dry white meat.

Based on those two dishes, Curry Point seems a solid, likable restaurant, but certainly not one worth a trip. If you're nearby, though, it's definitely worth adding to your takeout menu rotation.

Curry Point 41-02 Greenpoint Avenue, Queens 718-786-9500

Have a tip or restaurant-related news? Send it to fork@villagevoice.com.


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