Dish No. 65: Shelsky's Peter Shelsky

Dish No. 65: Shelsky's Peter Shelsky
Rebecca Marx

A little over a month ago, Shelsky's opened its doors with the stated mission of bestowing smoked salmon upon Smith Street. It has done so, and also given the neighborhood some pretty great sandwiches, including the Peter Shelsky.

Named for the store's proprietor, the sandwich comprises Eastern Gaspé salmon, sable, pickled herring with cream sauce, pickled onions, and scallion cream cheese, served on a bagel or bialy. The one pictured above was ordered without cream sauce, and came to us on a garlic bialy. It set us back $11.50.

The sandwich is an excellent showcase for some top-notch fish and exceptionally fresh cream cheese. The salmon and sable come sliced almost thin enough to read the paper through, and the herring is firm and sweet. The onions provide a crunchy counterpoint to the silken fish, and the bialy, since it hails from Kossar's, is soft and chewy, and exudes a perfect amount of garlic funk.

Good as it is, however, it can barely contain its aquatic cargo: Each bite threatens to expel the herring from its perch. But even if the fish is a little too thick for its surroundings, Shelsky's seems to fit in perfectly.

Shelsky's 251 Smith Street, Brooklyn 718-855-8817

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