Dish No. 71: Russ & Daughters' Super Heebster
Welcome to 100 Dishes to Eat Now, Fork in the Road's handy list of some of our favorite dishes -- old standbys and new finds alike -- compiled daily.
Today's pick: The Super Heebster ($10.45) from Russ & Daughters.
While Russ's star attraction is its immaculate smoked and cured salmon, its whitefish salad is also a thing of salty, savory beauty. The Super Heebster provides it with an excellent showcase: A generous helping of the salad -- which is made from smoked whitefish, baked salmon, chopped onions, and a bit of mayonnaise -- is heaped onto a bagel that's been anointed with a smear of horseradish cream cheese, and then topped off with a spoonful of wasabi-flavored flying fish roe.
The sandwich is a vibrant crazy-quilt of heat, umami, smoke, and salt, and also boasts plenty of textural thrills that come courtesy of the cream cheese, whipped to ethereal heights; the crunchy, snappy roe; the silky, voluptuous whitefish salad; and the bagel, which boasts a nice, shiny crust and pleasantly chewy innards. While you can get pretty much any bagel you'd like -- there's now even a whole-wheat Everything -- we recommend pumpernickel or Everything.
We also recommend eating the Super Heebster as soon as humanly possible after purchase, preferably on the bench outside the shop, which affords the opportunity to contemplate the Lower East Side as you chew through the perfect alchemy of the neighborhood's savory past and irreverent, unexpected present.
Russ & Daughters 179 East Houston Street 212-475-4880
Previously in the countdown: Dish No. 100: Zaragoza Grocery's Flor de Calabaza Quesadilla Dish No. 99: No. 7 Sub Shop's General Tso's Tofu Sandwich Dish No. 98: Nigerian Goat Stew From Baku Dish No. 97: The Captain's Daughter From Saltie Dish No. 96: Bun Bo Hue From Thanh Da Dish No. 95: The Beauty From Mile End Dish No. 94: Potato, Egg, and Provolone on a Roll at Torrisi Italian Specialties Dish No. 93: The Terrine Board at the Breslin Bar and Dining Room Dish No. 92: Sausage and Egg Breakfast at La Bonbonniere Dish No. 91: Roasted Carrots at Porchettta Dish No. 90: Spicy Miso Ramen at Ramen Setagaya Dish No. 89: Peanut Butter Pretzel Pie From First Prize Pies Dish No. 88: Brown Butter, Corn, and Mushroom Linguine at Buttermilk Channel Dish No. 87: Katsudon at Ennju Dish No. 86: Fried Chicken With Two Sides at Soul Fixins Dish No. 85: Fried Lamb Intestines at El Quinto Pino Dish No. 84: Kunafa From Nablus Sweets Dish No. 83: Potato Flatbread at Sahadi's Dish No. 82: Chicken-Fried Chicken Livers at Cornbread Diner Dish No. 81: Taleggio, Broccoli Rabe, and Sausage Panini at Bocca Lupo Dish No. 80: Hamburger at M. Wells in Long Island City Dish No. 79: Vanilla Malted at Brooklyn Farmacy Dish No. 78: Seafood Combo With Hot Sauce From Randazzo's Clam Bar Dish No. 77: Fried Ipswich Clams at Ed's Lobster Bar Dish No. 76: Banh Uot Thit Nuong (Grilled Pork and Noodles) at Co Ba Dish No. 75: Schiacciata con l'Uva at Sullivan Street Bakery Dish No. 74: Cornish Pasty at Myers of Keswick Dish No. 73: Baklava at Güllüoglu Dish No. 72: Sauerkraut Noodles at 8th Avenue Noodles
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