Donnybrook's Irish Fish Pie and Smoked Salmon

Donnybrook's Irish Fish Pie and Smoked Salmon

From about the year 1200 to 1855, the neighborhood of Donnybrook, Dublin, held an annual fair that was so rowdy and beer-soaked that the word "donnybrook" has come to mean a public quarrel. A new Irish pub of the same name has opened on the Lower East Side, serving hearty stuff like Irish breakfasts, shepherd's pie, and fish and chips.

The fish pie ($15), a bubbling, buttery crock of shrimp and cod in bechamel, tastes as rich as a bisque, especially since the "aged cheddar crust" turned out to be not a crust at all, but a layer of the melted cheese flopped over the cream sauce. It's a bit much, but in a tasty enough way. The crumbly brown bread that comes alongside is pleasantly rough-hewn.

Donnybrook's Irish Fish Pie and Smoked Salmon

A simple plate of smoked salmon with a sweetish, tangy mayo sauce, red onion, capers, and pickles is fine for those who aren't feeling up to black pudding and butter.

35 Clinton Street 212-228-7733


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