Fat Pants Friday: Steve's Key Lime Chocolate-Covered Pie on a Stick

A nearly vanquished Swingle.
A nearly vanquished Swingle.

When the weather turns warm, our thoughts turn to the waterfront and frozen foods on sticks. Which is why this week has been an ideal one for the chocolate-covered key lime pie pops, or Swingles, at Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies in Red Hook.

Half the fun of Steve's is just getting there -- to do so you must wander away from the Fairway crowds, across brick-lined streets, and through long weeds and the seafaring detritus of an earlier time. Steve's itself is located in a converted warehouse right on the harbor, and seems to occupy its own slightly off-kilter parallel universe: One time we arrived there and were greeted by a small fleet of Airstream trailers hosting a family reunion of sorts, complete with a pack of Jack Russell terriers that roamed among the sunflowers.

Regardless of what's going on outside, inside the spare bakery there are Swingles aplenty. Simply put, the sum of a Swingle's parts -- a miniature key lime pie dipped in melted Belcolade chocolate and then frozen -- is one excellent accompaniment to both sunshine and sea breezes. Sweet, tart, cool, creamy, and crunchy (thanks to the Graham cracker crust), it presses a soundboard's worth of pleasure buttons, and may cause you to reach for a cigarette after you've finished eating.

But be warned: in the tradition of the most potent members of the Fat Pants Friday peanut gallery, Swingles are far more substantial than their 4-inch diameter would suggest. They pack an impressive wallop, and rate a pair of sweatpants on the Fat Pants Scale. Fortunately, Steve's is nowhere near a subway, so by the time you've walked the 25 minutes to the F train, your digestive tract may have regained some of its prior vigor.

Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies 204 Van Dyke Street Red Hook, Brooklyn 718-858-5333

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