Favorite Dishes #29: Marta's Roman-Style Pizza

Stewed-tripe pizza
Stewed-tripe pizza
Zachary Feldman, the Village Voice

Tucked inside the lobby of the Martha Washington hotel, Marta (29 East 29th Street, 212-651-3800) — Danny Meyer and Nick Anderer's like-minded follow-up to their hit Roman restaurant Maialino — traffics in crunchy, airy pizzas with cracker-thin crusts, many of which reimagine classic Roman dishes for their clever toppings. The uneven rounds that Anderer and chef de cuisine Joe Tarasco pull from the flames of the kitchen's massive wood-burning ovens, above all other offerings, are one of the city's most constant and reliable pleasures.

With a thin layer of mozzarella and bright, acidic sauce, the margherita is textbook. Start to branch out, however, and you'll discover that Marta has carved a charming niche for itself in our city's pizza landscape. When the restaurant opened, there were stewed-tripe pies and pizzas covered in cured pork jowl, onions, and pecorino cheese — a riff on amatriciana sauce. Anderer's patate alla carbonara — which also relies on guanciale for its meaty funk — loads on the potatoes and cheese. The finishing touch of coddled eggs, poured over the pizza in the same fashion that Di Fara's Dom DeMarco drizzles olive oil, takes this white-pie-on-steroids to another level. A corner slice never gets old, but if you've worn out your tastebuds on too much Neapolitan pizza, Marta does the Roman staple proud.

The Village Voice is counting down to our Best of New York City issue in October. We're combing the city every day, one dish at a time, to guide you to the most delicious food in NYC. These are our 100 Favorite Dishes for 2015, in no particular order, save for the top 10. To read about previous dishes, browse our 100 Favorite Dishes page.

Here's our countdown up to now:
#100: Laminated Blueberry Brioche at Dominique Ansel Kitchen
#99: Egg Shop's Golden Bucket Fried Chicken
#98: Ramen Lab's Torigara Shoyu
#97: Cannoli at Ferdinando's
#96: Breakfast Sandwich at Dimes
#95: Banana Royal at Eddie's Sweet Shop
#94: Fletcher's Burnt Ends
#93: Almayass's Mante
#92: Empellon Taqueria's Fish Taco
#91: El Rey's Sardine Tostada
#90: General Tso's Pig's Head at the Cannibal
#89: The Vegetarian at Meat Hook Sandwich Shop
#88: The 21 Club's Creamy Chicken Hash
#87: Deep-Fried Olives at Via Carota
#86: Pougi at Loi Estiatorio
#85: Shelsky's Hot Pastrami Sandwich
#85: Pearl & Ash's Smoked Bread with Chicken Butter
#84: Gluten-Free Pizza at Rossopomodoro
#83: Perry St's Chocolate Pudding With Candied Violets
#82: Whit's End's 'Fuckin' Bluefish Dip'
#81: Morgenstern's Salt and Pepper Pine Nut Ice Cream
#80: Levain Bakery's Chocolate Chip Walnut Cookie
#79: Delmar Pizzeria's Pizza
#78: Cafe Cluny's Avocado Toast
#77: Brooklyn Star's Cinnamon Bun
#76: Pork Belly Cotton Candy at Carnem
#75: Ippudo's Pork Buns
#74: Mission Chinese Food's Oil-Cured Anchovies
#73: Johnnycakes at LoLo's Seafood Shack
#72: The Starving Artists Steak at Belle Reve
#71: The Spotted Pig's Gnudi
#70: Xi'an Famous Foods' Tiger Vegetable Salad
#69: Crème Brûlée Truffle at Kee's Chocolates
#68: Pok Pok's Muu Paa Kham Wong
#67: Cacio e Pepe at Upland
#66: Pulpo at Toro
#65: Junior's Something Different
#64: Duck Carnitas at Cosme
#63: Banana Miso Ice Cream Sandwich at Neta
#62: Breads Bakery's Chocolate Babka
#61: Braised Lamb Neck at the Gorbals
#60: Dough's Passionfruit Doughnut
#59: Uncle Jesse Bao at Baohaus
#58: Patatas Bravas at El Colmado
#57: Lupulo's Razor Clams
#56: Bar Masa's Spicy Dancing Shrimp
#55: Underwest Donuts' Halva
#54: The Virgola Platter at Virgola
#53: Noreetuh's Monkfish Liver Torchon
#52: Amarena Cherry Merveilleux
#51: Roasted Mushrooms at Bara
#50: Fonda's Oaxacan Black Mole Enchiladas
#49: Flinders Lane's Lamb Rump
#48: Blue Ribbon Sushi's Temaki Honnin
#47: Dirty French's Chicken and Crepes
#46: The Vegetarian Combination at Zoma
#45: Merguez Sausage Flatbread at Irvington
#44: Le Grand Aioli at Marlow & Sons
#43: Shelsky's Hot Pastrami Sandwich
#42: Hippie Banjo at Pies 'n' Thighs
#41: Malted Milkshake from Dizzy's Diner
#40: Graffiti's Graffiti Burger
#39: Beef Rolls at Kottu House
#38: Cafe Katja's Wiener Schnitzel
#37: Norma's Potato Pancakes
#36: Goat Milk Soft Serve at Victory Garden
#35: Okonomi's Onsen Egg
#34: 'Njuja Pizza at Obicà
#33: Paulaner Sausage Sampler
#32: Triple Chocolate Chunk Cookies at The Whitney
#31: Momofuku Ssäm Bar's Dry Aged Rib Eye
#30: Bar Boulud's Escargots Persillade


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