Favorite Dishes #35: Okonomi's Onsen Egg

Onsen egg, stirred
Onsen egg, stirred
Zachary Feldman, the Village Voice

At Okonomi (150 Ainslie Street, Brooklyn; no phone) chefs Yuji Haraguchi and Tara Norvell devote their mornings and afternoons to ichiju sansai, a multi-course breakfast of soup, fish, and accompaniments like subtly sweet pickles made with rice vinegar and sour yuzu. Presented in gorgeous ceramic vessels, this regal morning meal also includes creamy cubes of Japanese-style rolled omelet, mixed with soy milk or heavy cream to create a deeply caramelized exterior. But even those elegant ova pale in comparison to the kitchen's dreamy onsen egg.

Poached in the shell and cooked to the approximate temperature of a hot spring, the egg arrives in its own cup, floating in sweet soy sauce and topped with togarashi — a Japanese chile powder spiked with roasted citrus and sesame seeds. It's served as a two-dollar supplement, meant to pair with bowls of remarkably fluffy and nutty brown rice crowned with pungent cured bonito flakes. Mix everything together and pour its viscous yolk and barely-there white over the grains to season them. The result is close to a porridge, but with loads more personality than that term suggests. Lush and salty-sweet, its depth of flavor is a delightful surprise in a meal full of them.

The Village Voice is counting down to our Best of New York City issue in October. We're combing the city every day, one dish at a time, to guide you to the most delicious food in NYC. These are our 100 Favorite Dishes for 2015, in no particular order, save for the top 10. To read about previous dishes, browse our 100 Favorite Dishes page.

Here's our countdown up to now:
#100: Laminated Blueberry Brioche at Dominique Ansel Kitchen
#99: Egg Shop's Golden Bucket Fried Chicken
#98: Ramen Lab's Torigara Shoyu
#97: Cannoli at Ferdinando's
#96: Breakfast Sandwich at Dimes
#95: Banana Royal at Eddie's Sweet Shop
#94: Fletcher's Burnt Ends
#93: Almayass's Mante
#92: Empellon Taqueria's Fish Taco
#91: El Rey's Sardine Tostada
#90: General Tso's Pig's Head at the Cannibal
#89: The Vegetarian at Meat Hook Sandwich Shop
#88: The 21 Club's Creamy Chicken Hash
#87: Deep-Fried Olives at Via Carota
#86: Pougi at Loi Estiatorio
#85: Shelsky's Hot Pastrami Sandwich
#85: Pearl & Ash's Smoked Bread with Chicken Butter
#84: Gluten-Free Pizza at Rossopomodoro
#83: Perry St's Chocolate Pudding With Candied Violets
#82: Whit's End's 'Fuckin' Bluefish Dip'
#81: Morgenstern's Salt and Pepper Pine Nut Ice Cream
#80: Levain Bakery's Chocolate Chip Walnut Cookie
#79: Delmar Pizzeria's Pizza
#78: Cafe Cluny's Avocado Toast
#77: Brooklyn Star's Cinnamon Bun
#76: Pork Belly Cotton Candy at Carnem
#75: Ippudo's Pork Buns
#74: Mission Chinese Food's Oil-Cured Anchovies
#73: Johnnycakes at LoLo's Seafood Shack
#72: The Starving Artists Steak at Belle Reve
#71: The Spotted Pig's Gnudi
#70: Xi'an Famous Foods' Tiger Vegetable Salad
#69: Crème Brûlée Truffle at Kee's Chocolates
#68: Pok Pok's Muu Paa Kham Wong
#67: Cacio e Pepe at Upland
#66: Pulpo at Toro
#65: Junior's Something Different
#64: Duck Carnitas at Cosme
#63: Banana Miso Ice Cream Sandwich at Neta
#62: Breads Bakery's Chocolate Babka
#61: Braised Lamb Neck at the Gorbals
#60: Dough's Passionfruit Doughnut
#59: Uncle Jesse Bao at Baohaus
#58: Patatas Bravas at El Colmado
#57: Lupulo's Razor Clams
#56: Bar Masa's Spicy Dancing Shrimp
#55: Underwest Donuts' Halva
#54: The Virgola Platter at Virgola
#53: Noreetuh's Monkfish Liver Torchon
#52: Amarena Cherry Merveilleux
#51: Roasted Mushrooms at Bara
#50: Fonda's Oaxacan Black Mole Enchiladas
#49: Flinders Lane's Lamb Rump
#48: Blue Ribbon Sushi's Temaki Honnin
#47: Dirty French's Chicken and Crepes
#46: The Vegetarian Combination at Zoma
#45: Merguez Sausage Flatbread at Irvington
#44: Le Grand Aioli at Marlow & Sons
#43: Shelsky's Hot Pastrami Sandwich
#42: Hippie Banjo at Pies 'n' Thighs
#41: Malted Milkshake from Dizzy's Diner
#40: Graffiti's Graffiti Burger
#39: Beef Rolls at Kottu House
#38: Cafe Katja's Wiener Schnitzel
#37: Norma's Potato Pancakes
#36: Goat Milk Soft Serve at Victory Garden

Sponsor Content


All-access pass to the top stories, events and offers around town.

  • Top Stories


All-access pass to top stories, events and offers around town.

Sign Up >

No Thanks!

Remind Me Later >