Favorite Dishes #51: Roasted Mushrooms at Bara

A bouquet of roasted mushrooms at BaraEXPAND
A bouquet of roasted mushrooms at Bara

Pity poor mushrooms — they're rarely the star of a plate. Despite the abundant variety that chefs can access year round and their ability to be easily foraged in the wild — even by building-bound New Yorkers — mushrooms are often reduced to supporting players on top of a steak or in a sauce. So when a dish masterfully lets them shine, it's worth celebrating.

At Bara (58 East 1st Street; 917-639-3197), chef Ian Alvarez combines his classic French technique with a love of Japanese flavors in a mix of roasted beech, oyster, king oyster, enoki, and cauliflower mushrooms. Soubise — traditionally made with cream, onions, and rice, but in this case with sake, short-grain rice, and onion — is set on the bottom of the plate, topped with the mushrooms and roasted sunchokes, all tossed in a bright dressing of lemon, sesame seeds, and pistou; a traditional French blend of garlic, basil, and olive oil.

The varying textures and subtle flavor differences from the mushrooms mean that each bite is somewhat unexpected — first meaty, then super sweet, then tangy, then rich, and then meaty again. Just when you think you've fallen for a particular varietal, like the somewhat firm heads of the tiny beeches or the feathery cauliflowers, another will stand out. In the cold of winter, the deep flavors of the roasted mushrooms and sunchokes linger long after the meal is over; in the warmer months, the dish feels brighter, the lemon and seasonal greens slightly more pronounced.

The Village Voice is counting down to our Best of New York City issue in October. We're combing the city every day, one dish at a time, to guide you to the most delicious food in NYC. These are our 100 Favorite Dishes for 2015, in no particular order, save for the top 10. To read about previous dishes, browse our 100 Favorite Dishes page.

Here's our countdown up to now:
#100: Laminated Blueberry Brioche at Dominique Ansel Kitchen
#99: Egg Shop's Golden Bucket Fried Chicken
#98: Ramen Lab's Torigara Shoyu
#97: Cannoli at Ferdinando's
#96: Breakfast Sandwich at Dimes
#95: Banana Royal at Eddie's Sweet Shop
#94: Fletcher's Burnt Ends
#93: Almayass's Mante
#92: Empellon Taqueria's Fish Taco
#91: El Rey's Sardine Tostada
#90: General Tso's Pig's Head at the Cannibal
#89: The Vegetarian at Meat Hook Sandwich Shop
#88: The 21 Club's Creamy Chicken Hash
#87: Deep-Fried Olives at Via Carota
#86: Pougi at Loi Estiatorio
#85: Shelsky's Hot Pastrami Sandwich
#85: Pearl & Ash's Smoked Bread with Chicken Butter
#84: Gluten-Free Pizza at Rossopomodoro
#83: Perry St's Chocolate Pudding With Candied Violets
#82: Whit's End's 'Fuckin' Bluefish Dip'
#81: Morgenstern's Salt and Pepper Pine Nut Ice Cream
#80: Levain Bakery's Chocolate Chip Walnut Cookie
#79: Delmar Pizzeria's Pizza
#78: Cafe Cluny's Avocado Toast
#77: Brooklyn Star's Cinnamon Bun
#76: Pork Belly Cotton Candy at Carnem
#75: Ippudo's Pork Buns
#74: Mission Chinese Food's Oil-Cured Anchovies
#73: Johnnycakes at LoLo's Seafood Shack
#72: The Starving Artists Steak at Belle Reve
#71: The Spotted Pig's Gnudi
#70: Xi'an Famous Foods' Tiger Vegetable Salad
#69: Crème Brûlée Truffle at Kee's Chocolates
#68: Pok Pok's Muu Paa Kham Wong
#67: Cacio e Pepe at Upland
#66: Pulpo at Toro
#65: Junior's Something Different
#64: Duck Carnitas at Cosme
#63: Banana Miso Ice Cream Sandwich at Neta
#62: Breads Bakery's Chocolate Babka
#61: Braised Lamb Neck at the Gorbals
#60: Dough's Passionfruit Doughnut
#59: Uncle Jesse Bao at Baohaus
#58: Patatas Bravas at El Colmado
#57: Lupulo's Razor Clams
#56: Bar Masa's Spicy Dancing Shrimp
#55: Underwest Donuts' Halva
#54: The Virgola Platter at Virgola
#53: Noreetuh's Monkfish Liver Torchon
#52: Amarena Cherry Merveilleux

Jacqueline Raposo writes about chefs and food culture. Join her on Twitter and Instagram, and at www.WordsFoodArt.com.

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