Favorite Dishes #72: The Starving Artists Steak at Belle Reve

The Starving Artists Steak at Belle Reve in TribecaEXPAND
The Starving Artists Steak at Belle Reve in Tribeca

The longer you've lived in New York, the harder it seems to find restaurants that feel like old New York. But in Tribeca, with all of its high-fashioned, high-ceilinged and high-ticketed lifestyle nowadays, a new neighborhood gem, Belle Reve (305 Church Street; 212-680-0101), comes close.

Bedecked in dark wood, orange-tinged lighting and legitimately old odds and ends, it's the kind of place that draws an eclectic crowd, be they suited professionals, day drinkers or silver-haired tourists enjoying a leisurely sidewalk lunch. Revelers pack in at night for live music, burlesque dancers, and really-late-night festive debauchery. The chef, Paul Gerard, has evidently found fitting partners in fellow New Yorkers Billy Gilroy (of Employees Only, Macao Trading Co., Lucky Strike, Match) and Patrick Fahey (of Macao Trading Co., Naked Lunch, Peggy Sue’s). Together, the three like to push the ambiance above the food which, considering how quickly Belle Reve has found its footing as a good ol' neighborhood joint, is valid. But the food alone is worth many a return trip.

Among many stellar plates, the Starving Artists Steak delivers Gerard's gospel of simple, "three-chord cuisine" loud and clear. It's salted and seared to perfection, drizzled with either a whiskey peppercorn sauce, or (my personal favorite), a robust but refined herb puree. It comes with two sides, meaning that you can indulge in the fatty-salty-crispy fries dredged in bone marrow, or partner up with a cauliflower-cherry pepper-caper pesto combo (above), asparagus drizzled with lemon, or any other equally delicious vegetable sides which could, alone, be a fully satisfying meal. Gerard applies his mad skills and many years at the stove to simple, satisfying dishes that pair perfectly with the upscale-but-down-home bar feel at which his partners equally excel. Yes, the burlesque and go-go dancers and random people tickling the keys are reason enough to head down to Church Street. But the food is, too. Welcome to old New York.

The Village Voice is counting down to our Best of New York City issue in October. We're combing the city every day, one dish at a time, to guide you to the most delicious food in NYC. These are our 100 Favorite Dishes for 2015, in no particular order, save for the top 10.

Jacqueline Raposo writes about chefs and food culture. Join her on Twitter and Instagram, and at www.WordsFoodArt.com.

Here's our countdown up to now:
#100: Laminated Blueberry Brioche at Dominique Ansel Kitchen
#99: Egg Shop's Golden Bucket Fried Chicken
#98: Ramen Lab's Torigara Shoyu
#97: Cannoli at Ferdinando's
#96: Breakfast Sandwich at Dimes
#95: Banana Royal at Eddie's Sweet Shop
#94: Fletcher's Burnt Ends
#93: Almayass's Mante
#92: Empellon Taqueria's Fish Taco
#91: El Rey's Sardine Tostada
#90: General Tso's Pig's Head at the Cannibal
#89: The Vegetarian at Meat Hook Sandwich Shop
#88: The 21 Club's Creamy Chicken Hash
#87: Deep-Fried Olives at Via Carota
#86: Pougi at Loi Estiatorio
#85: Shelsky's Hot Pastrami Sandwich
#85: Pearl & Ash's Smoked Bread with Chicken Butter
#84: Gluten-Free Pizza at Rossopomodoro
#83: Perry St's Chocolate Pudding With Candied Violets
#82: Whit's End's 'Fuckin' Bluefish Dip'
#81: Morgenstern's Salt and Pepper Pine Nut Ice Cream
#80: Levain Bakery's Chocolate Chip Walnut Cookie
#79: Delmar Pizzeria's Pizza
#78: Cafe Cluny's Avocado Toast
#77: Brooklyn Star's Cinnamon Bun
#76: Pork Belly Cotton Candy at Carnem
#75: Ippudo's Pork Buns
#74: Mission Chinese Food's Oil-Cured Anchovies
#73: Johnnycakes at LoLo's Seafood Shack


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