Fork in the Road Eats Pizza at Co.
This week, I review Co., the upscale pizza joint from Jim Lahey of Sullivan Street Bakery. As you would expect from a master baker, the crust is beautiful. It comes out of the 900 degree gas oven dappled with char and small bubbles. But it's not pizza if there's not something on top (even if it's just olive oil and salt), and some of the toppings here don't seem to have much care put into them.
For instance, the "market priced" truffle pizza ($40 when we went) was covered in truffles that tasted of absolutely nothing at all. I wasn't sure how they would even have accomplished this, but Sietsema suggests that the truffles were brine-cured, a preparation which leaves all the flavor in the brine. In any event, it's not a good way to top a pizza. Other toppings, like the ham and cheese and the boscaiola (pork sausage) are delicious.
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230 Ninth Avenue
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