Fork in the Road reviews At Vermillion


Where do I even start with

At Vermillion

? Despite all evidence to the contrary, I thought it might be good. Although fusion concepts like this, Latin American-Indian, often end in disaster, I was excited about a place where you could get arepas topped with duck vindaloo, or crab curry in a huitlacoche crepe. Alas, reading the menu is a more satisfying experience than eating any of the food.

Strangely, At Vermillion's sister restaurant, Chicago's Vermillion is wildly popular and critically acclaimed. I don't know what happened here, but I know it is a trainwreck--food that's sculpted into tortured shapes and somehow manages to be blander than bland. Even more strangely, in late December-early January, it was closed several nights a week for private parties, so maybe it'll find a life that way.

In any case, click the clickity above for all the gory details.

At Vermilion
480 Lexington Avenue

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