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Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

The brisket burnt-edges sandwich at Gates Bar B.Q.

The last week of April, Peter Meehan, Jonathan Gold, and I went to Kansas City for three days of binge eating. The conversations that ensued have been edited and presented in the fourth issue of Lucky Peach -- the Summer, 2012 edition. In it we mainly talk about food and music. By my count the three of us managed to eat in 22 places total, though sometimes not as a full crew.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

The grisly aftermath of a meal at Gates in which we tried to taste nearly everything.

Visiting places like Stroud's, LaMar's, Winstead's, and Arthur Bryant's, we partly followed in the footsteps of Calvin Trillin - who long ago maintained that Kansas City food was the best in the world. It may have been a mistake that we took the proclamation more seriously than its author. Here are photos of some of the things that we ate. One of the greatest pleasures of the trip was finding out that the three of us - all veteran critics - disagreed completely about half the time.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

The founders of Gates Bar B.Q. in a shaft of holy light

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

The Stroud's pan fried chicken was pretty much a hit with all of us, right fellas?

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

And so were the fried potatoes, at least as far as I was concerned.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

Stroud's cinnamon rolls have their fervent admirers, but most patrons end up taking them home for breakfast the next day.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

The interior of Stroud's

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

Here's a place we skipped for lack of time -- and appetite.

 

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

The double hamburger (foreground) and fry-onion ring combo (background) at Winstead's caused us to ponder the nature of burgers in Kansas City.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

At midday, the interior was diner-like and somewhat dark.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

LaMar's cinnamon roll was too big to fit in the picture's frame.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

Breakfast at Town-Topic

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

Open 24 hours!

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

Tamales from La Posada Spanish Grocers

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

Arthur Bryant's on Brooklyn Avenue, by sunset

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

Woodrow Bacon was pitmaster at Arthur Bryant's for 60 years.

 

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

Despite the colorful plate, the first pass at the legendary Arthur Bryant's was none too great; we went two days later and it was better.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

Probably the worst thing we ate in three days was the burnt-edges soup at Jack Stack Barbecue.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

On a second visit, the milkshake at Town-Topic was formidable.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

These ribs from Oklahoma Joe's -- across the state line in Kansas City, Kansas -- generated the greatest controversy of the trip.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

Oklahoma Joe's is located in a gas station.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

We checked out every barbecue we could find, no matter how unpromising.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

The ribs at Winslow's BBQ weren't bad.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

LC's is located on the southeast edge of town -- also in a gas station, though one no longer operating.

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

The burnt edges sandwich at LC's. What's not to like?

Gold, Meehan, and Me Invade KC

On a second visit to Bryant's, the smoked sausage sandwich was a delight.


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