How to Cook Ramps, and Where to Eat Them
Katherine Knowles for the Village Voice
Ramps are a wild onion with a viciously short season — you should get them now, basically, because they'll be gone in a couple of weeks. This rarity is what makes them an object of seasonal obsession all over town.
"I love ramps," says Kenneth Welch, chef at Rosso Pomodoro (118 Greenwich Avenue). "I'm so ready! After four or five months of fighting over turnips, they make a great change. I hope the season lasts. So far, the weather's been pretty mild, so maybe. But we did have those warm days last week, and the ramps are getting bigger...right now. This is the perfect moment for ramps. You have to seize the day."
Look out for small ramps that appear compact and not too spindly or straggly. "As the season goes on, and the weather gets warmer, the ramps get bigger and less flavorful," says Welch.
Wash them and wrap them in a damp kitchen towel, then store them in the fridge for a couple of days — ideally, use them as soon as you buy them.
- Add a handful of chopped ramps to an omelet with peas and parmesan
- Griddle the ramps and toss with a little olive oil and lemon juice. Serve on grilled bread rubbed with garlic.
- Fry with pancetta and onion and finish with a splash of white wine
- Add ramps to a pan of linguine for the last minute of cooking time, then serve with olive oil, plenty of parmesan, and a handful of pitted black olives
Cooking not your thing? Check out the ramp pizza, or chef Welch's burrata salad at Rosso Pomodoro.
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