The "fries sandwich" ($3.50) will really fill you up.

Boy, Dr. Atkins really did a number on us! Most restaurants now refuse to serve bread, low-carb wraps have replaced sandwiches, and your mashed potatoes have been reduced from a big fluffy pile to a tiny schmear under the steak that's more than half butter.

The fries sandwich laid bare

But the carb underground is striking back. Witness the so-called fries sandwich at Lebanese newcomer Man'ouChe in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn, located at the corner of Fifth Avenue and 77th Street: a passel of fries rolled up in a perfect, freshly made pita. Both ketchup and a very garlicky mayo slather the sandwich, and a handful of lettuce is thrown in, too, as if to proclaim, "Veggies, you are our natural ally, not meat."

The sandwich is astonishingly good, a kingdom of squish and crunch in its toasted pita, and the price is so cheap, it will cost you less to eat one than to make a meal at home. And every sandwich is a blow against carb prejudice.

Man'ouChe 7701 Fifth Avenue Bay Ridge, Brooklyn 718-200-0150

Thanks to Jesse Drucker for tipping me to this fantastic place.

rsietsema@villagevoice.com @robertsietsema on Twitter