Kaz An Nou, New French-Caribbean in Prospect Heights

Spicy lamb lasagne with homemade pasta
Spicy lamb lasagne with homemade pasta

"Kaz An Nou" means "our house" in the Creole language spoken in Guadeloupe, and the name is apt. A group of us trooped over to this new French-Caribbean restaurant in Prospect Heights on Friday night, and the small spot felt homey and warm, staffed by one waiter and a husband-and-wife team in the tiny open kitchen behind a counter.

The couple is Michelle and Sabastian, she from Vermont, he from Guadeloupe and France. The food is their own brand of French-Caribbean fusion, including inventions like escargot in curry-garlic butter and plaintains au gratin, in a creamy, emmenthal cheese sauce. It's BYOB for now.

Kaz An Nou's menu is short--about five starters and five mains--a smart move given their small space and staff. On Friday night, a special of Guadeloupe-style salt cod fritters were just perfect--resolutely crisp on the outside, light, fluffy, and briny inside. We scrabbled over a tasty pheasant pate swaddled in puff pastry ($7), and slurped down the tender snails ($7) swimming in butter. That dish of plantain au gratin ($5) was not as easy to love, a weirdly soupy, cheesy mass studded with slices of the fruit.

Mains were uniformly good: A dish of lasagna ($13) with tender homemade pasta was brightened by nubs of spiced lamb that tasted like merguez; a confit duck leg ($15) benefited from an orange pool of mango jerk sauce.

Although the agoulou ($11, a Guadeloupe-style burger) was, by default, cooked more well-done than is ideal, it was the sort of thing you think about for days afterward--the spiced beef patty crunchy on the edges, slathered with a mushroom-scallion compote and goat cheese, sitting on a sesame seed roll. The agoulou can also be had with avocado salsa and a fried egg.

We left satisfied and not broke. Kaz An Nou is shaping up to be an excellent neighborhood restaurant.

53 6th Avenue, Brooklyn 718-938-3235

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