Lambi and Other Haitian Delights
Lambi is a fricassee of conch in coconut milk with root vegetables, variegated bell peppers, and chiles.
This week, Counter Culture slithers into Cathedral, a Haitian restaurant right on Church Avenue on the edge of East Flatbush. Offering a shifting roster of dishes as the week progresses, the place offers a perfect thumbnail of the wonders of Haitian food--a more or less equal conjoining of French and West African cuisines. All dishes are served with rice and beans in various configurations, a green salad with orange "French" dressing of the bottled sort (no one quite knows how it got into the cuisine), and twice-fried woody plantains or accra, an African fritter of a vegetable something like taro.
Grillot (pronounced "gree-oh") is a confit of pork chunks, marinated in sour orange and shallots, and cooked in pork fat.
Piklis is a relish of cabbage, vinegar, and Scotch bonnet peppers.
Poulet en sauce is a dark and deeply flavored chicken stew that may or may not have been influenced by the neighborhood's Jamaican cooking.
A whole red snapper, enough for two diners, arrives perfectly fried and accompanied by the sauce called T-malice (top) and piklis (bottom).
Bilay (pronounced "pee-lay") is a dish of cracked wheat and pink beans, probably inspired by Lebanese pilaf.
See other Picture This...And This.
Get the Food & Drink Newsletter
Our weekly guide to New York dining includes food news and reviews, as well as dining events and interviews with chefs and restaurant owners.
More Food & Drink News
- Fawkner, an Americana-Inspired Gentlemen's Drinking Den in Cobble Hill
- Must-Have: The Creamy, Custardy, Salted Caramel Pumpkin Bar at Empire Cake
- Vegetarian Cider House Wassail Fizzes in the Glass and Dazzles on the Plate
- NYC's New World of Breakfast Sandwiches Will Vastly Improve Your Days (and Nights)