Monday Is Roast Pig Night at Back Forty

Monday Is Roast Pig Night at Back Forty

Viking or bathing beauty? The whole roast pig at Back Forty.

The slight figure was borne in on a door-size wooden plank, bronzed as if having lain in the sun for a week of Spring Break, and furnished with a thick bouquet of forest-green herbs like an ancient Viking returned from battle on his rustic caisson.

No, it was only a whole roast pig at Back Forty in the East Village on Monday night, pig night, but what a whole roast pig it was! A friend had ordered an entire animal for our group of 10, and I have rarely seen a communal main course served with such ceremony. Of course, it was partly a matter of pig unwieldiness that caused the servers to do a little dance as they arrived at the table with the goods.

The pig was cut crosswise into thick slices, with skin on the outside of each slice, a rimming of moist meat, and a dice of meat mixed with flavorings in the center as stuffing. The pig was supposedly done like Italian porchetta, only fennel bulb had been used instead of more-pungent fronds, and the stuffing lacked the wallop of garlic and random organ meats that real Italian porchetta has. Of course, Italian porchetta is usually served cold from a truck, while ours was hot.

Monday Is Roast Pig Night at Back Forty

Our expert pig wranglers made sure everyone had a generous portion.


Prefatory dishes had included a good bowl of greens, a good bowl of black beans, an app of fried oysters in a well-dressed thicket of lettuces, and a heap of bread arranged around the pig's head in a penumbral fashion.

Dessert was a root beer float. Excellent!

The entire meal, including a couple of drinks, tax, and tip, came out at $85 per person.

Monday Is Roast Pig Night at Back Forty

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