My 10 Favorite Queens Restaurants

My 10 Favorite Queens Restaurants

The sel roti at Mustang Thakali Kitchen -- much better than Dunkin' Donuts.

This countdown is intended to be a bit different from the other "10 Best" lists, specifically reflecting the places I return to again and again in Queens on my own dime, long after I've critiqued them. The food is consistently great; there are just enough choices that I don't feel railroaded, yet not too many. The dining space is comfortable and the noise level lower than usual. But mainly it's about the food -- things I could eat every day and not get bored.

My 10 Favorite Queens Restaurants

The grilled cevapcici at Rudar, served with a red-pepper dipping sauce.

10. Rudar Soccer Club -- The bar upstairs filled with old men, the fake windows in the basement dining room, the long tables lined with Istrian soccer-playing immigrants and their completely Americanized offspring, plus stick-to-your-ribs fare like the bean-and-smoked-meat soup called minestra s kobasicom, and the pint-size skinless sausages known as cevapcici make this former factory in an obscure location a favorite. 34-01 45th Street, Long Island City, Queens, 718-786-5833

9. O Lavrador -- Stick to the barroom (the gnarled wooden door on the left), get a bucket of Portuguese Sagres beer, and a handful of cod fritters (bar menu only), while you contemplate the chalkboard specials, many featuring sea creatures incorporated into magnificent stews or paella-type rice formulations. 138-40 101st Avenue, Jamaica, Queens, 718-526-1526

8. Cheburechnaya -- Find fatty meat kebabs (yay, lamb ribs!) grilled over a charcoal trough as you watch, turnovers bursting with potatoes and meat, rice pilafs, and random other Uzbek and Russian recipes, ably and consistently produced, and washed down with tumblers of vodka at this replica Silk Road teahouse. 92-09 63rd Drive, Rego Park, Queens, 718-897-9080

7. M & T Restaurant -- This Qingdao restaurant will change your notions of what Chinese food is. The bready bao, for example, are made of fine cornmeal, the dumplings stuffed with loofah, while a shocking dish on the specials menu pairs beef tendon with shrimp. The chef is always ready to try a new dish out on you, if you ask. 44-09 Kissena Boulevard, Flushing, Queens, 718-539-4100

6. BCD Natural Tofu Restaurant -- Sunnyside doesn't get any sunnier than this: a Korean place that makes its own tofu, then deploys it in a series of silken soondubu (soft bean-curd) stews. Ask for it spicy and the staff will gladly comply. 40-06 Queens Boulevard, Sunnyside, Queens, 718-706-0899

My 10 Favorite Queens Restaurants

A very happy crew of diners finishes up their meal at M & T.

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