New Type of Pizza Appears on Christopher Street
A square of tomatoey goodness
When a new type of pizza arrives in town, expanding the city's already far-flung pizza boundaries, it's an occasion to sit up and take notice, whatever the source might be.
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In this case, the slice is also a piece of French pastry, with buttery and flaky layers, courtesy of Bien Cuit, the Cobble Hill bakery that caused a sensation last year due to the excellence of its breads. It has now grown a Manhattan branch in Greenwich Village.
The pastry is called Sicilian Breakfast Pizza, the designation "Sicilian" in observance of the shape and thickness of the slice (not really a slice at all, since the square is a self-contained pizza unit), not out of any sense of actual origin (though Sicily was a colony of France for two centuries).
The slice is actually quite spectacular, with a touch of sweetness to the pastry and more than a touch of sweetness to the tomato sauce. No cheese, but a nice thing to eat for breakfast. And you can add cheese in the privacy of your home if you want.
The new branch of Bien Cuit on Christopher Street also offers further unique breakfast pastries. It's open at 7 a.m. on weekdays.
Bien Cuit 35 Christopher Street 646-590-3341
The apple-cardamom pastry triangle, displayed against the brown backdrop of its carryout bag
Bien Cuit's chocolate croissant is as brown as brown can be.
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