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No. 1: Appam With Egg at Bownie

No. 1: Appam With Egg at Bownie

The lacy parabolic flatbread is beautiful, but what's that egg doing in the bottom?

It is said that a feast of 100 dishes must begin with a single bite, and today we get that bite as we inaugurate a new feature. In 100 Days/100 Dishes, Fork in the Road traverses the culinary landscape of the five boroughs and beyond, noting and explicating some of the best treats the city has to offer, in alphabetical order from A to Z, running from Appam to Zeppole. So please join us every morning for the next 100 days, Saturdays and Sundays included, because food never takes a day off.

In the south of India, flatbreads made with a fermented rice-and-coconut batter are called "appams," but in Sri Lanka, they have the nickname "hoppers," supposedly caused by a mispronunciation on the part of English colonialists. Hoppers are usually offered in sets of four, either as a stand-alone meal with chutneys, or as an accompaniment to fish or lamb curries. By tradition, every fourth one has a jiggy egg annealed to the bottom. The bread is slightly sweet, and when you pull it apart, the ovum goes all gooey on you.

Get your egg hoppers hot -- and regular hoppers, too -- at Bownie, a Sri Lankan luncheonette in Flushing.

Bownie 14305 45th Avenue Flushing, Queens 718-463-8621


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