No. 4: Baked Buns at Golden Steamer

No. 4: Baked Buns at Golden Steamer

Chinese buns are not just for breakfast anymore.

When Golden Steamer opened last year on Mott Street, it revealed to us a whole new world of southern Chinese savory baked goods.

While we'd been familiar with the sponge cakes and tarts that dazzle the eye in Chinese bakeries -- which take the baking traditions of the British and mutate them in interesting directions -- the savory branch of this pastry family has remained more obscure. Sure, you'd see the occasional tubular roll with a hot dog sticking out the end, but Golden Steamer has taken this approach to the most extreme limit, making the sweet things a sort of sideline to the savory baked and steamed products.

The picture shows Golden Steamer's version of the fabled hot dog roll, plus a scallion roll, and a sesame roll. But don't worry -- all these buns incorporate some sugar into the formula, so the rolls are also a bit sweet and salty. Many are offered warm, and they make a very nice cheap lunch or snack on the run.

Golden Steamer 143A Mott Street 212-226-1886

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