Nylon Khaman at Bombay Fast Food, Dish No. 1
The beloved Gujarati snack khaman dhokla has a texture and flavor something like cornbread. It's made by soaking, grinding, and fermenting lentils, much the same way as dosas are fabricated.
The nylon khaman (the "dhokla" is apparently understood) at newcomer Bombay Fast Food near Bryant Park achieves the end by swifter means. "Nylon" when applied to Indian cooking has come to be used interchangeably with "instant," and thus the nylon khaman, dotted here with black mustard seeds and festooned with roasted green chilies, is made with besan, or chickpea flour.
Light, earthy, dotted with salt on top of a thin sugar glaze, the nylon khaman tastes even more like a particularly fluffy cornbread than the non-nylon type of dhokla. Really, who's going to complain?
Nylon dhokla is just one of many Bombay and Gujarati vegetarian snacks at Bombay Fast Food. Somewhat comically, the place shares a premises with a dollar-a-slice pizza parlor and a place called Rolando Spanish Food. Stick with the Indian grub.
Bombay Fast Food & Pizza 1013 Sixth Avenue 212-840-3767
Expensive real estate makes strange bedfellows.
And thus ends our 100-dish countdown to the Voice's Best Of issue, out next Wednesday, October 19.
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