Our 10 Best Wintery Restaurants

In the summer, sometimes all you want is a taco from a cart, a tomato salad, or a cold beer and sausage, eaten outside at the Bohemian Beer Garden. But winter calls for more substantial fare--bread dumplings that will insulate your ribs like a puffy ski jacket, pizza crackling hot from a wood-fired oven, steamy momos that warm your face like a meat-scented sauna.

There are certain restaurants that are best enjoyed when the temperature falls, that almost make us glad it's seven degrees outside because it gives us an excuse to eat stew and drink mulled wine in front of a fire. These are restaurants that, as Wallace Stevens wrote in his poem, Snow Man, give you "a mind of winter."

Our picks for the best wintery restaurants of New York are right this way.

Presented in no particular order, our runners up:

Toby's Public House (Pizza; 686 Sixth Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-788-1186) Wood-burning oven just feet from the tables, congenial bar, charred-crust pizza

Katz's Delicatessen (Deli; 205 East Houston Street, 212-254-2246) Pastrami tastes best in winter

Henry's End (American; 44 Henry Street, Brooklyn, 718-834-1776) Cozy room, wild game

Cafe Katja (Austrian; 79 Orchard Street, 212-219-9545) Stick-to-your ribs food like goulash with spatzle, schnapps list

Milan (Slovak; 710 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-788-7384) Old-school Slovak: bread dumplings, roast pork, beer

Book Chang Dong (Korean; 15222 Northern Blvd, Queens, 718-961-2001) Specializes in bubbling-hot soondubu, soft tofu stew, ask for extra spicy

Grand Sichuan House (Sichuan; 8701 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-680-8887) Hot pot, Chongqing chicken

Restaurant Tbilisi (Georgian; 811 Kings Highway, Brooklyn, 718-382-6485) Khachapuri Adjarian (cheese bread): dough, egg, cheese, and butter

Top Cafe Tibet (Tibetan; 1510 Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn, 718-941-2725) Rumbles cozily when the Q train goes by, fat, meat-and-egg-stuffed momos, hearty noodle soup

August (European; 359 Bleecker Street, 212-929-4774) Wood-fired oven, roasted suckling pig

Soldier on to find out which restaurants made the top 10.

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