Our Man Sietsema Enjoys John Dory's Cod Sperm
Our Man praises a few dishes with enthusiasm:
The best of the uncooked selections is the yellowtail, cut into fat matchsticks and dribbled with ginger oil, which is made crunchy with shreds of purple shallot and flakes of charred skin. What a beautiful picture it made on the plate!
And, Sietsema being Sietsema, he can't resist the opportunity for a dirty joke:
It came, for example, on cod milt (fish sperm, $16), a dish that defines just how far the menu will go to deliver novel seafood sensations. While this may conjure up images of ejaculating fish and hapless under-chefs running after them with paper cups, the semen comes in a sac that fries up like sweetbreads. For aficionados of weird food, it's delicious.
Semen, sac and sweetbreads--three words we never thought we'd see in the same sentence in a restaurant review!
The John Dory
85 Tenth Avenue
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