Our Man Sietsema Grapples with Mixology
This week, Our Man heads to Williamsburg to explore the "crippled kitchen theme" at Huckleberry Bar. The trend, as Our Man sees it, is toward bars and lounges that bring on young, hungry chefs to create elaborate bar menus with little more than a hot plate.
At Huckleberry, Our Man enjoys many of the small bites and sandwiches that emerge from the crippled kitchen—a toasted ham and cheese sandwich, showcasing ham from Salumeria Biellese and Irish cheddar, and the "perfect" pickle platter:
"Veggies the size of a baby’s thumb march onto the plate in pairs, like a miniature Noah’s Ark: fennel bulbs, carrots, turnips, Bosc pears, yellow beets, and sliced Kirby cukes, each with its own lip-puckering astringency."
Along the way, Our Man considers the absurdity of the term "mixologist" ("Why not 'alcohol chef?'") but approves of the end results, including classics like the Sidebar and Negroni, and new inventions like the Edward Bulwer-Lytton (ginger-infused rum, crème de coco and grapefruit juice). He also finds the bar's backyard to be the "perfect place to suck a spliff."
Huckleberry Bar 588 Grand Street Williamsburg, Brooklyn 718-218-8555
Get the Food & Drink Newsletter
Our weekly guide to New York dining includes food news and reviews, as well as dining events and interviews with chefs and restaurant owners.