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Pix from Ovelia, a Modern Greek Restaurant in Astoria

Pix from Ovelia, a Modern Greek Restaurant in Astoria

The nearly unpronounceable kolokithokeftedes are fried zucchini patties served with an ouzo-laced tomato dipping sauce.

This week, Counter Culture triremes into Ovelia, a modernistic boite in Astoria that retains its ancient outlook. The portions are generous, the tariff light. Anything that comes with skordalia--the garlicky Greek potato dip--is fab, including grilled sand shark, zucchini fritters, and grilled eggplant. Stick with the traditional Greek dishes (including a wonderful homemade sausage called loukanika), and you'll have a great meal.

Pix from Ovelia, a Modern Greek Restaurant in Astoria

For lovers of lots of meat in lumps, there's Ovelia piklia, including sweetbreads and veal liver.

Pix from Ovelia, a Modern Greek Restaurant in Astoria

Served with a shitload of excellent fries, the moussaka is a tuck-in of major proportions.

Pix from Ovelia, a Modern Greek Restaurant in Astoria

A well-executed Greek salad is a gastronomic thing of beauty.

 

Pix from Ovelia, a Modern Greek Restaurant in Astoria

A chorus line of squab, nicely charred from the grill.

Pix from Ovelia, a Modern Greek Restaurant in Astoria

Shark! Shark! Shark! Served with skordalia.

Pix from Ovelia, a Modern Greek Restaurant in Astoria

The exterior of Ovelia, umbrellas furled, as winter approaches.


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