Reviewing the Doritos Locos Taco
William Grimes, former restaurant critic at The New York Times, reviews the Doritos Locos Taco today:
Like almost every normal American, I like Doritos Nacho Cheese Flavored chips. For precisely that reason, I regarded the taco version with dread. Would it violate the spirit of the chip? Or, conversely, would it make the mistake of being slavishly faithful to the Dorito model?
Our man Sietsema reviewed the hybrid taco monster back in March, and reminded us that his father Jacob Sietsema played an important part in developing the early Nacho Cheese flavor, now being used in the Taco Bell taco shell.
While I'm not fond of eating Doritos on their own, in the context of the unspeakably bland Taco Bell taco the extra flavor kick of the snack chip was entirely welcome. Yes, believe it or not, I actually liked the taco representing the cheaper of the two price options.
If you've yet to try the taco yourself, here are two more snippets:
Impeccable--if Ray Eames dreamt herself a taco, a fast food assemblage, this would be it. The Locos defies shell convention.
The taco doesn't really enhance the Doritos, nor the other way around. It's merely like eating a mediocre Taco Bell taco and a small bag of Doritos at the same time
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