Restaurant Reviews

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La Vara: Thanks, Spanish Inquisition La Vara: Thanks, Spanish Inquisition
Try a delicious history lesson in Cobble Hill
, May 23, 2012
There was a time in Spain when pork was the law. The Spanish Inquisition ramped up in the 1400s to brutally enforce a Christian culture. So while... More >>
Little Pepper: Eat Heat Little Pepper: Eat Heat
A favorite Sichuan place brings its fire to a new nabe
, May 23, 2012
Seven years ago, when Little Pepper opened on Roosevelt Avenue across from the Bland housing projects, it was hard to get diners to go there.... More >>
Pastry Chef Elwyn Boyles Conjures Desserts in the Sky Pastry Chef Elwyn Boyles Conjures Desserts in the Sky
The sweet taste of success
, May 16, 2012
Know this: Every time you wave away the dessert menu without even looking at it, a cook's heart shatters like a pane of burnt sugar. Every pastry... More >>
Swallow Some Nettles at Parish Hall! Swallow Some Nettles at Parish Hall!
The locavoric folks behind Egg open a new Williamsburg spot
, May 16, 2012
When Williamsburg's Egg cracked open seven years ago, it was at an auspicious time. The local and sustainable movement was in full swing, comfort... More >>
Genting Palace: We Wager You'll Like It Genting Palace: We Wager You'll Like It
Now you can play the ponies and eat dim sum at the same place—Aqueduct
, May 02, 2012
When Malaysia's Genting Group opened its casino in—of all places—Ozone Park's Aqueduct Racetrack, it followed the same formula it had used at... More >>
Benares: Howdy, Squishy Goat Foot! Benares: Howdy, Squishy Goat Foot!
Plus spuds and spices at a new upscale Indian spot
, April 25, 2012
Perhaps the world's oldest city, Varanasi is also Hinduism's holiest site. It lies on the banks of the Ganges River in Uttar Pradesh, a state in... More >>
Florencia 13: Gangsters Get Their Burritos Florencia 13: Gangsters Get Their Burritos
California expats find themselves a clubhouse in NYC
, April 18, 2012
You can't imagine how many complaints I've fielded from Angelenos who can't stand NYC's Mexican food. Invariably, the tortillas are all wrong,... More >>
Zero Otto Nove: Rabbit, Run! Zero Otto Nove: Rabbit, Run!
A Salerno-style spot does both Belmont and the Flatiron district
, April 11, 2012
Twelve years ago, when Roberto Restaurant first appeared in Belmont—the Bronx's Little Italy—there weren't as many good dining spots as there are... More >>
Brooklyn Wok Shop Strikes Up the Bland Brooklyn Wok Shop Strikes Up the Bland
It's hipsterized Cantonese classics in Williamsburg
, April 04, 2012
Let's say you craved Chinese food of the kind snagged from carryouts when you were a kid. But, somewhat absurdly, you wanted to enjoy it in a... More >>
John Brown Smokehouse: Long Island City Gets a Great Barbecue John Brown Smokehouse: Long Island City Gets a Great Barbecue
Queens now tastes a little like Kansas City
, March 28, 2012
It's something of an urban miracle how quickly NYC has gone from being a barbecue wasteland to a national 'cue capital. The phenomenon began 20... More >>
Kaia: Please Boer Me Kaia: Please Boer Me
Happily, New York gets some more South African food
, March 21, 2012
For nearly two decades, New York diners have been regaled with the fascinating and varied cuisines of West Africa, most notably Senegalese,... More >>
Tacos Morelos: A Starchy Delight Shines in Queens Tacos Morelos: A Starchy Delight Shines in Queens
, March 14, 2012
Five years ago, I rounded up a dozen friends and took them on a taco crawl along Roosevelt Avenue, from Flushing Meadows to Jackson Heights. Our... More >>
North End Grill: Danny Meyer Shall Rule Us All North End Grill: Danny Meyer Shall Rule Us All
The restaurant king further annexes Battery Park City
, March 14, 2012
Is Danny Meyer going to revitalize Battery Park City the way he did the Flatiron district? Last summer, the wildly successful restaurateur opened... More >>
Mercado on Kent: From Bilbao to Billyburg Mercado on Kent: From Bilbao to Billyburg
A giant tapas bar tries it one more time
, March 07, 2012
Five years ago, news that a protégé of Spanish chef Ferran Adrià—the guru of molecular gastronomy—was coming to NYC would have turned out hordes... More >>
Talde: Pan-Asian in the Pan Talde: Pan-Asian in the Pan
A Top Chef-er takes his toque to the Slope
, March 07, 2012
Dale Talde sure knows how to write a menu. In perusing the bill of fare at his new Park Slope restaurant, Talde, I found not a single dish I... More >>
Sao Mai and Xe May Sandwich Shop: Finally, Your Banh Mi Tacos Sao Mai and Xe May Sandwich Shop: Finally, Your Banh Mi Tacos
The East Village gets two new Vietnamese spots
, February 29, 2012
It was an auspicious beginning: a squat stack of culantro nestled against the branches of Thai basil and crisp bean sprouts on the herb plate... More >>
Barboncino: Naples Staples Barboncino: Naples Staples
Crown Heights gets its own fancy Italian pizza parlor
, February 22, 2012
Barboncino is yet another of the wood-burning, Naples-aping pizzerias that have lately covered certain parts of the city like so much melted... More >>
Caffè Storico: The Museum of Fine Dining Caffè Storico: The Museum of Fine Dining
Venice lends some savor to the New-York Historical Society
, February 22, 2012
Just a few years ago, museum dining meant chomping down on watery Cobb salads and mayo-laden tuna sandwiches—and that's if you were lucky. But... More >>
Bowery Diner: A Cup of Joe and Some Whelks, Please Bowery Diner: A Cup of Joe and Some Whelks, Please
A classic kind of American restaurant goes upscale in New York 2012
, February 15, 2012
Known as "night owls," the first diners were horse-drawn carts equipped with a griddle and icebox, selling snacks outside the city's honky-tonks... More >>
Kavkaz: Nuts to You Kavkaz: Nuts to You
A Brooklyn restaurant leaves herds of sheep testicle-free
, February 08, 2012
In a borough famous for its pickle platters, this one was exceptional. The tantalizing assortment flaunted big leaves of cabbage tinted bright... More >>
Pulqueria: ¡Hola, los Cocktails! Pulqueria: ¡Hola, los Cocktails!
Get sloshed on a different kind of breast milk
, February 08, 2012
According to Aztec myth, Mayahuel—the divine personification of the agave plant—invented pulque and pumped the Mexican booze from her 400... More >>
French Dip, Once Hip French Dip, Once Hip
The past and present of a legendary soggy sandwich
, February 01, 2012
Stories vary, but nearly everyone agrees that the French dip was invented in Los Angeles around 1918. It coincided with a national craze for... More >>
Cozy Up, Nippon-Style, at Family Recipe Cozy Up, Nippon-Style, at Family Recipe
The Lower East Side gets some Japanese home cooking
, February 01, 2012
When I tell people I review restaurants for a living, they reply, "You have the best job ever." Perhaps, but some folks have it even better: the... More >>
Elza Fancy Foods: Big Mash-Up in Brighton Beach Elza Fancy Foods: Big Mash-Up in Brighton Beach
Uzbek-Korean-Russian food, you say? Head on out.
, January 25, 2012
In the Russo-Japanese War of 1904–05, the emperor stuck it to the czar. Japan tightened its grip on the Korean peninsula, and Korean refugees... More >>
Sottocasa: Pie (Oven) in the Sky Sottocasa: Pie (Oven) in the Sky
Boerum Hill gets itself a new Neapolitan pizzeria
, January 25, 2012
It's not every day you see a 4,000-pound oven flying three stories above Boerum Hill. But that's how Luca Arrigoni had to install the stove at... More >>
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