Restaurant Reviews

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Kavkaz: Nuts to You Kavkaz: Nuts to You
A Brooklyn restaurant leaves herds of sheep testicle-free
, February 08, 2012
In a borough famous for its pickle platters, this one was exceptional. The tantalizing assortment flaunted big leaves of cabbage tinted bright... More >>
Pulqueria: ¡Hola, los Cocktails! Pulqueria: ¡Hola, los Cocktails!
Get sloshed on a different kind of breast milk
, February 08, 2012
According to Aztec myth, Mayahuel—the divine personification of the agave plant—invented pulque and pumped the Mexican booze from her... More >>
French Dip, Once Hip French Dip, Once Hip
The past and present of a legendary soggy sandwich
, February 01, 2012
Stories vary, but nearly everyone agrees that the French dip was invented in Los Angeles around 1918. It coincided with a national craze for... More >>
Cozy Up, Nippon-Style, at Family Recipe Cozy Up, Nippon-Style, at Family Recipe
The Lower East Side gets some Japanese home cooking
, February 01, 2012
When I tell people I review restaurants for a living, they reply, "You have the best job ever." Perhaps, but some folks have it even better: the... More >>
Elza Fancy Foods: Big Mash-Up in Brighton Beach Elza Fancy Foods: Big Mash-Up in Brighton Beach
Uzbek-Korean-Russian food, you say? Head on out.
, January 25, 2012
In the Russo-Japanese War of 1904–05, the emperor stuck it to the czar. Japan tightened its grip on the Korean peninsula, and Korean... More >>
Sottocasa: Pie (Oven) in the Sky Sottocasa: Pie (Oven) in the Sky
Boerum Hill gets itself a new Neapolitan pizzeria
, January 25, 2012
It's not every day you see a 4,000-pound oven flying three stories above Boerum Hill. But that's how Luca Arrigoni had to install the stove at... More >>
Land of Plenty: Old Money Burns Its Tongue Land of Plenty: Old Money Burns Its Tongue
In a good way. Some Sichuan spice for 58th Street.
, January 18, 2012
At the end of the last century, who could have predicted Manhattan would someday be speckled with Sichuan restaurants? Cantonese carryouts were... More >>
Parm: Munch a Bunch of Lunch Parm: Munch a Bunch of Lunch
Dig into a sammy at the new Torrisi Italian Specialties spin-off
, January 18, 2012
They say a good man is hard to find, but you know what's even tougher? A good mozzarella stick. You scour the city looking for the perfect logs... More >>
Taste of India and Thali (Food) Court Jersey City Taste of India and Thali (Food) Court Jersey City
There's hope for your tongue at Newport Centre Mall
, January 11, 2012
Out of necessity, you've probably eaten in lots of shopping-mall food courts. You're tired, hungry, and footsore, and rather than hitting the... More >>
Battersby: Food Talks, Mouths Listen Battersby: Food Talks, Mouths Listen
A fine spin on Brooklyn fare in Cobble Hill
, January 11, 2012
On first glance, Battersby looks like every other twee Smith Street eatery. The narrow, brick-walled space can hold no more than 30... More >>
Kutsher's Tribeca: Pseudo Summer in the City Kutsher's Tribeca: Pseudo Summer in the City
A new spot evokes the Jewish resort hotels of the past
, January 04, 2012
On my most memorable visit to Kutsher's Tribeca, I went with three generations of a family who might be seen as Catskills royalty. The... More >>
La Promenade des Anglais: France Gets Loud La Promenade des Anglais: France Gets Loud
Alain Allegretti seasons his new restaurant with noise
, January 04, 2012
It's fitting that La Promenade des Anglais, a new restaurant whose name recalls Nice's famed Mediterranean boardwalk, is located next to New York... More >>
Allswell: Nate Smith Won't Play B-17 Allswell: Nate Smith Won't Play B-17
Or anything else in his new, jukebox-free restaurant
, December 28, 2011
Carrying the gastropub banner forth into battle, Spotted Pig alumnus Nate Smith didn't have much of a chance at the Dean Street Tavern massacre.... More >>
Calyer: Greenpoint Counterpoint Calyer: Greenpoint Counterpoint
Innovative Latin-American small plates hit up the Brooklyn nabe
, December 28, 2011
Many restaurants have splashy openings fueled by flittering publicists and camera-ready chefs. Not Calyer, the latest eatery from the team behind... More >>
Gregory's 26 Corner Taverna: Attica! Attica! Gregory's 26 Corner Taverna: Attica! Attica!
A tiny place in Astoria puts the other Greeks to shame
, December 21, 2011
A block south of restaurant-crammed Ditmars Boulevard—Astoria's Greek main drag—there's another street of slightly more concealed... More >>
Onegin: Meanwhile, on the Russian Front Onegin: Meanwhile, on the Russian Front
An edible ode to Pushkin opens in Greenwich Village
, December 21, 2011
How would Eugene Onegin, the title character of the Russian lit classic, feel about his new namesake restaurant on Sixth Avenue? He was a bit of... More >>
Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria: Rustic Never Sleeps Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria: Rustic Never Sleeps
Noho's Il Buco gets itself a cozy, romantic spin-off
, December 07, 2011
In my book, a good first-date restaurant offers three key things: First, an intimate setting with soft, glowing light to flatter one's face.... More >>
The Indian Clove Plays Its Drums of Heaven The Indian Clove Plays Its Drums of Heaven
South Asian fare from many regions wows Staten Island
, November 30, 2011
If you were riding a bike to the restaurant, you'd toil uphill on curving Victory Boulevard past Mexican bodegas and Sri Lankan lunch counters to... More >>
Mas (la grillade): The Will to Grill Mas (la grillade): The Will to Grill
Galen Zamarra plays with fire in the West Village
, November 30, 2011
Restaurants focusing on a sole foodstuff have taken New York by storm. The Meatball Shop and Meatball Factory offer orbs to packed houses. Queens... More >>
Hot Kitchen is a Hot Pot Hot Spot Hot Kitchen is a Hot Pot Hot Spot
Get yourself a bowl of burn
, November 23, 2011
Midway through our meal at Hot Kitchen, my friends and I looked at each other and grinned. Our cheeks flushed a rosy pink as our eyes began to... More >>
Tertulia: Erin Go Tapas Tertulia: Erin Go Tapas
Seamus Mullen opens a new Spanish joint in Greenwich Village
, November 23, 2011
In the '90s, if you told friends you were going to a tapas bar, they'd look at you funny and wonder what the hell you were talking about. Yes,... More >>
Banana Leaf: Here's Your Skanky Wallop Banana Leaf: Here's Your Skanky Wallop
Brooklyn's Sunset Park goes a little more Malaysian
, November 16, 2011
For the jaded foodie, Malaysian fare has myriad charms. Ever tasted screwpine? Although it sounds like a pervert having his way with a shapely... More >>
La Mar Cebicheria Peruana: Raw Power La Mar Cebicheria Peruana: Raw Power
A Peruvian transplant is pleased to ceviche you
, November 09, 2011
There are lots of cheap Peruvian restaurants in Queens that serve great renditions of Andean classics like aji de gallina, papas Huancaina, and... More >>
RedFarm: Dim Sum and Then Some RedFarm: Dim Sum and Then Some
Find your fancy Chinese food in the West Village
, November 09, 2011
"Is that place any good?" a man asked as some friends and I descended the stairs from RedFarm. "It's not bad," one of my companions replied.... More >>
The Cannibal: Let's Meat Up The Cannibal: Let's Meat Up
No human dishes here, but lots of animal ones
, October 26, 2011
Good, fully developed veal: That's apparently what human flesh tastes like, according to William Buehler Seabrook, a New York Times reporter,... More >>
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