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Tastes Like Headcheese to Me

Robert Sietsema, November 09, 1999

Silky as a hundred-dollar blouse, ruddy as a stevedore's face in a high wind, the prosciutto di Parma ($9) swirls around the plate, mocking a... More >>

Georgia on My Mind

Robert Sietsema, October 26, 1999

Sure, most Brighton Beach restaurants serve up a handful of Georgian favorites like chicken tabaka and kidney-bean lobio. But since Cafe Pearl... More >>

Noodle Diplomacy

Robert Sietsema, October 12, 1999

Koreatown is booming, with restaurants debuting all along 32nd and 35th streets. Many offer previously unobtainable specialties. Mandoo Bar (2... More >>

Frog in My Throat

Robert Sietsema, September 14, 1999

Clad in a checked gingham scarf and apron, the waitress trips across a rustic bridge to deliver the casserole, doffing the lid with a flourish to... More >>

Watering Hole

Robert Sietsema, August 31, 1999

Once it was a Chinese carryout. Now, teal blue tables, a powder blue drop ceiling, and plum banquettes--a color scheme that doesn't quite work,... More >>

Monster Mash

Robert Sietsema, August 17, 1999

For the last decade Senegalese, Ghanaian, and Ivory Coast restaurants have held sway over the city's West African food. Now it's Nigeria's turn.... More >>

Dairy State

Robert Sietsema, August 03, 1999

Most of us have zipped past the intersection of Canal and Broadway dozens of times without noticing a restaurant, but pause and gaze skyward... More >>

Goodbye Ruby Foo’s

Robert Sietsema, July 20, 1999

Like a Fu Manchu movie crossed with a small upstate university's art collection, Ruby Foo's flaunts its Asian artifacts. Make your way up the... More >>

Hey Joe, Where Ya Goin’ With That Noodle in Your Hand?

Robert Sietsema, July 06, 1999

Kissena Boulevard is the strip-mall capital of Korean Flushing, lined with clusters of barbers and beauty shops, greengrocers and video stores,... More >>

Bistro Africain

Robert Sietsema, June 22, 1999

Tucked under the chin of the verdant and mountainous Marcus Garvey Park, African Grill occupies the former premises of a Harlem dive known as the... More >>

Great Balls of Masa

Robert Sietsema, June 08, 1999

Stuffed with cheese or pork, hand-patted, then cooked to speckled brownness on the griddle, pupusas are one of the great comfort foods. These... More >>

Upscale Mexican Takes a Road Trip

Robert Sietsema, May 25, 1999

Streaked a single shade of peach, Cafe Frida parrots a too familiar design idea—a village with tiled roofs, arched walkways, and multilevel... More >>

Still Hungary

Robert Sietsema, May 11, 1999

For most of this century, Manhattan's Yorkville harbored a sizable Hungarian population. Their coffeehouses, butcher shops, and restaurants were... More >>

Hamburger Heaven

Robert Sietsema, April 27, 1999

You'd think the big-chain renditions would have killed the burger. But the assault of Ronald and his pals on our national dish has only made it... More >>

Cuckoo for Cou-Cou

Robert Sietsema, April 13, 1999

Sporting an electric-blue awning, Culpepper's is a brand-new Bajan café a few blocks south of Eastern Parkway in Brooklyn's Prospect-Lefferts... More >>

Gimme a Pigfoot

Robert Sietsema, March 30, 1999

There's magic in pied de cochon ($13)— flesh scraped from boiled bones and chopped fine, merged with bits of onion, celery, and carrot, then... More >>

Eat, Lean, and Snooze

Robert Sietsema, March 16, 1999

Among the many amazing features of In God We Trust is a wall of Astroturf next to the tables, which makes for some comfy leaning after downing... More >>

Abalone, No Baloney

Robert Sietsema, March 02, 1999

The 2300 miles of mountains that separate Chile and Argentina prevent much culinary resemblance. While Chileans depend on seafood that rides the... More >>

Royal Road

Robert Sietsema, February 16, 1999

Kings Highway is Brooklyn's camino real— a grand thoroughfare tracing a grid-defying arc through the heart of immigrant neighborhoods: East New... More >>

Stoemp

Robert Sietsema, February 02, 1999

Squaring off across a windy meat-district corner, a pair of Belgian eateries beckon fans with jocular sounding specialties like waterzooi, dame... More >>

Two Hours Before the Maste

Robert Sietsema, January 19, 1999

The stretch of Coney Island Avenue that runs through Ditmas Park marks the culinary center of the city's thriving Muslim community, packed with... More >>

Soul Remains

Robert Sietsema, January 05, 1999

Leafing through back issues of The Amsterdam News at the Schomburg Library, I stumbled on a restaurant advertising section dated January 26,... More >>

Dosa After Dosa

Robert Sietsema, December 29, 1998

Three blocks east of Flushing's Main Street, Bowne Street seems a quiet thoroughfare of frame houses and trim apartment buildings. But a surprise... More >>

The Players

Robert Sietsema, December 15, 1998

Bisected by an open kitchen, the long dining room is pleasantly underdecorated—the red-faced Laughing Cow glued to one wall, a few shelves of old... More >>

Marco and Me

Robert Sietsema, December 01, 1998

In search of an Israeli place that had vanished into the thick autumn air, we spied an unfamiliar Forest Hills commercial strip—a procession of... More >>

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