Robert Sietsema at Brooklyn Wok Shop; Meat Manners Matter at The Cannibal
See what NYC's restaurant critics have been up to this week:
In the Voice, Robert Sietsema dines at Williamsburg's Brooklyn Wok Shop and finds the food uninspiring: "My advice: Save yourself some money and 'wok' north into Greenpoint to find a real Chinese carryout."
Pete Wells gives two stars to Williamsburg's Gwynnett St.: "Every plate is more complex and more studiously designed than you would ever guess. But Mr. Hilbert's cooking doesn't jump up and down in its seat in the front row waving its hand wildly. It sits, patiently, until you notice that it knows all the answers."
Adam Platt visits Alison Eighteen in Flatiron and awards it one star: "If you're pining for a neighborly place that offers the little touches that New Yorkers from another dining era used to take for granted when they dropped $100 on dinner out and a nice bottle of wine (a spacious room; solidly professional service; the blessed opportunity, even on crowded evenings, to hear yourself think), you could do an awful lot worse."
In The New Yorker, Nick Paumgarten discusses the etiquette of meat gorging at the Cannibal: "One does wonder whether it is proper to have the veal tartare before or after the braised pork belly. When should the civilized man eat his pork rinds: prior to the pair of hot dogs smothered in beef-heart chili, or after the dogs, as a palette cleanser, in preparation for the slow-roasted half pig's head? Emily Post is unclear on the matter."
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