Robert Sietsema at Harold Dieterle's Kin Shop

This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema approves of Kin Shop: "When [Harold Dieterle] debuted Perilla in 2007, it wasn't a marquee assignment, but a small West Village bistro that gradually attracted a fervent following. Now, after a measured period of time, he's opened a second place a few blocks distant, and it's every bit as good."

Sam Sifton awards two stars to Riverpark: "The menu is captivating, and the service amiable, professional and quick. ... Certainly you can eat well. (Drink, too: The bar serves a wicked take on the Manhattan, with rye wisped through with single-malt Lagavulin, a smoky delight.)" [NY Times]

Sifton also files on Mary Queen of Scots: "The food is mostly capably prepared, simply French fare with a Scottish burr, less ambitious and satisfying than the fare at Highlands." [NY Times]

Ryan Sutton doesn't hate everything at Lincoln: "[Chef Jonathan] Benno is best when he veers from the predictable. Does any other cook plunge cod in a nutty prosciutto broth? I doubt it. Does anyone else cut razor clams to the same length as cavatelli? You don't know which white batons are dough or mollusk until they're in your mouth." [Bloomberg]

Jay Cheshes finds hits and misses at Kin Shop: "[W]hile there are certainly standouts among the chef's auteur creations, the traditional fare often seems extraneous." [TONY]

Steve Cuozzo has hope for Atlantic Grill at Lincoln Center: "Ocean Grill veteran Juan Carlos Ortega arrived to rescue the kitchen. The rear room got tablecloths. And while sushi seems ordinary, cooked seafood acquits itself in fine modern-American style." [NY Post]

The Underground Gourmet is rather taken with Fonda Nolita, where Tortilleria Nixtamal tortillas are filled with combinations of "slow-cooked meat, deftly seasoned sauces, and crunchy, fragrant toppings." [NY Magazine]

Gael Greene raves over Ciano: "I'm exhilarated by the discovery of this lush, exuberant food -- Shea Gallante cooking Italian with so much bravura. I can't wait to return." [Insatiable Critic]

Have a restaurant tip or other food-related news? Send it to fork@villagevoice.com.


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