Wednesday, March 31, 2010 at 10:45 a.m.
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers the "heart of Japanese cuisine" at Hibino in Cobble Hill; Sarah DiGregorio finds a few missteps at El Quinto Pino, but doesn't mind because "the place is fun, and spirited."
Sam Sifton awards Recette two stars, despite the restaurant earning tepid reviews thus far, deeming the cooking "smart and imaginative, the food... elegant and full of flavor." [NY Times, previously]
Sifton also visits three museum eateries: Robert (uncomfortable dining room, gummy pastas, great view); The Wright ("elegant"); and Sandwiched (excellent Bombay panino). [NY Times, previously]
Adam Platt finds that himself "wishing the talented chef had pulled more from his old menu" at Scott Conant's Faustina, where the food "feels like it's been whipped together in a hurry and slapped on the plate." [NY Magazine]
Jay Cheshes asks if sandwiches are the new burgers as he checks out Saltie, Torrisi Italian Specialties, The Meatball Shop, and This Little Piggy Had Roast Beef. [TONY, previously]
Ryan Sutton heads to 100-plus-year-old Keens, where "it's comforting to settle into a darkly lit booth to ingest meat that wouldn't seem out of place in the 19th century." [Bloomberg]
Gael Greene finds that Donatella Arpaia is doing just fine at Mia Dona; despite a raucous crowd, she "liked almost everything" at French Canadian Les Pescadeux. [Insatiable Critic]
Alan Richman revisits Tribeca Grill, where the menu "has few surprises and no major disappointments. The portions are jumbo... The prices are reasonable." [GQ/Forked]
Tables for Two is disappointed by Le Caprice, where "sublime treacle pudding could almost excuse the kitchen's blunders. The service, though, is unforgivable." [New Yorker]
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